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Old 02-10-2011, 11:47 AM   #1
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Default Those using JB Weld to mount heating elements . . .

Ok guys I have a simple question regarding JB Weld and mounting heating elements. Back in the day The Pol provided a very simple way to mount a heating element using a PVC coupler and plenty of JB Weld. I'm curious how things are holding up for those that did.

With the popularity of Kal's website I haven't seen people using this method for some time. Seems everyone is switching to junction boxes. I just want to get started brewing again and looking for a simple solution. I have also read in other threads that when using JB Weld with a heatstick it can loosen with the heat, since the JB weld is against the elements terminals I assume it would still get plenty of heat even when outside the keggle.

I also plan to ground the elements around the brim of the keg, is this stilla good method?

Squeeky

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Old 02-10-2011, 01:33 PM   #2
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I used the PVC coupler with JB on my boil kettle and hot liquor.
The coupler is loose now on the boil kettle after one 90 min boil.
Still loose after it cooled down. Ok on the hot liquor. I thought it could handle
the heat but I guess not. I thought about redoing it but maybe someone knows of a better adhesive ? I love the couplers though. Its a great safe
setup.

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Old 02-10-2011, 02:39 PM   #3
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I have about 9 batches on my "Pol" style and no sign of degradation. I only have it on my boil kettle and have done several 90 minute boils.

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Old 02-10-2011, 03:12 PM   #4
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Interested in this question too. I'm debating whether or not to go with the Pol method with just a coupling and some jb stick/jbweld or go with the junction box route.

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Old 02-10-2011, 09:38 PM   #5
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I used JB weld and magic putty, The magic putty did not hold up, but the JB weld did. I just built another one once I actually got a hold of some JB stik, but havn't tested it. I'm thinking maybe roughing up the inside of the coupler or putting some notches or channels inside to give the JB weld something to hold on to might fix the problem. I think the Magic putty, and probably the JB stik gets brittle over time. Either way as long as the JB weld is solid you are still probably protected from shorts.

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Old 02-10-2011, 09:42 PM   #6
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I used JB Weld to seal a header (exhaust manifold) that was right out of the engine. Combustion heat was constantly on it every day. It held fine. I doubt the heat from some heating elements would phase it. It could depend what you are "welding" together. PVC and metal probably wouldn't be as good as metal and metal. Just a guess.

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Old 02-10-2011, 09:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ODaniel View Post
I used JB Weld to seal a header (exhaust manifold) that was right out of the engine. Combustion heat was constantly on it every day. It held fine. I doubt the heat from some heating elements would phase it.
This is why I'm thinking of just going with straight JB weld and no Stik/putty.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:51 PM   #8
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Just considering the amount of success with "pols" element I would think I would follow his directions if you want that type of fitting. JB weld laughs at 212F.

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Old 02-12-2011, 10:08 PM   #9
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mine is similar, except i used liquid electricians tape, then jb weld. works fine so far after 10 plus batches.

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