Are these switches the same?

I need 3 off/on switches and 2 auto/off/on ... my build says the off/on switches need to be SPST and the Auto/off/on switches need to be SPDT.

I can only find switches like these

http://www.radioshack.com/flat-lever-heavy-duty-toggle-switch/2750651.html#.VOtcRcnTnqA

http://www.radioshack.com/spdt-with...pdt+heavy+duty+toggle&simplesearch=Go&start=1

But I'd really like to find some selector switches like these that would work for me..


http://www.ebrewsupply.com/2-way-1-no-contact-switch.html

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/3-way-1-no-contact-switch.html

im an electrical novice...are these the same?

Take a look here:
auberins.com/

Look at switches SW4 and SW3

Hope this helps

P-J

P-J said:

Take a look here:
auberins.com/

Look at switches SW4 and SW3

Hope this helps

P-J

Click to expand...

P-J, thank you for taking the time to respond, appreciate it greatly...ive ordered the parts to automate my mash temp and am almost ready to start building. I'm working on a schematic I haven't quite finished. I posted a thread about my idea and what im trying to accomplish along with the work in progress schematic. Would you mind taking a look and giving me any corrections and advice that is needed.

Thread is here
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/help-connecting-missing-pieces-schematic-517508/

Also the img

Thehopguy,

It is going to take me some time to try and cypher your diagram.
I'll get back to you.

Thanks

P-J

The two Ebrew switches you linked to are the correct types.

Keep in mind they appear to be rated for only 3amps.

'da Kid

P-J,

You are too kind, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to review my ideas and offer your help. I'm having a lot of fun learning about all of this but the amount of information gets overwhelming for a novice like myself. The pictures I have provided are for what I am trying to put together for now. I'm going to add a banjo burner to my Camp Chef burner stand with a low pressure regulator and control the gas with a Honeywell Valve and Auber SYL-2362 PID. I will do a constant recirculation on the mash with a pump and the PID and Honeywell will turn the gas on and off to maintain temp and perform any mash steps or mash outs. The long term idea is that I will be using an enclosure big enough for another PID and pump to perform either a RIMS of HERMS system on a stand that will be in the works in the coming months, but for now I'd like to get my feet wet and start the automation with my existing burner stand. I hope this info is of some aid for you in working out my diagram. Thanks again.

Keith

The ones you linked in your first post and the ones PJ linked are the exact same brand switches but the auber switches are double contact meaning if the switch lever is switched to the left the contacts on the right are closed and vice versa (basically meant to be a selector switch not really an on off switch but they will work fine just with an unused side...
According to the schematics you posted the ones from ebrew are actually a better fit for your application and better priced as well..

correction... SW2 from auber is exactly the same as the ebrew ones they just show the wrong image and are still $6 a piece vs $3.50 at e brew... the sw4 describes the one I mentioned above.

BTW both ebrew and aubrins are very well known for having great support (not that you should need it with an on off switch) so I'm not sure what advantage ordering from auber would serve.

Im not sure why the picture on ebrews shows it being rated at 600v and 10a on one side and only 3a at 240v? but since those are the same generic switches auber and ebrew sell as the ones I also bought on ebay for around $3 I can tell you mine are rated for 10a at 240v...

So for my pumps.. which will be manually operated with an off/on switch.. if I was ordering from Auber would I want the 2-position maintained 1 NO or 2 NO

Guy, either switch will work.

The second switch with the extra contact will give you the option to switch something else at the same time. Say a low voltage pilot light, a timer, etc.
If you purchase all the same brand of switches, you'll have a spare contact. Most are removable.

Keep in mind, most 2-NO switches have their contacts 'stacked'. They will be twice as high and will need room in your panel.

(N.O.-OFF-N.O.) contacts will be side-by-side.

'da Kid

The10mmKid said:

Guy, either switch will work.

Click to expand...

Kid, thanks for that simplified answer, that definitely helps. I was at first going to have a light turn on as well with my pump, but the size of my control panel wont allow for it so I think the SW2 will work fine. Also, because of my size restrictions I actually might end up using the 3 way toggle switch for my burner to be ran by either the PID or manually.

Maybe you could shed some light on this as well, I've asked in a couple other threads with no luck.

I am going to need power in to my control panel, as well as two inlets for my pumps. Here's where I get confused when shopping for them...

Inlets, Outlets, Plugs, Sockets, Power Modules... are these all the same thing!?

I've noticed people using IEC sockets even for their pumps... My march pump has a regular 3 prong plug... are they using an adapter from 3 prong to IEC or did they rewire their pump to be IEC???