Are These The Correct Items For My Heating Element Kit
I'm planning on making a kal control panel clone and I'm trying to figure out if it's cheaper to build my own Heating Element Kit or buy from kal's website. I took the parts list from kal's site and I priced everything out, but I just wanted to make sure that I was seletecing some of the correct items. I've chosen to use McMaster because I have a friend that works for them that can get me everything for cost, so I want to see how much it would cost to get everything from them. Granted it still might be cheaper to get somethings from ebay, but I'll figure that out later.
Below is the part list from kal's site and I put links to the items from McMaster site. If you could just reassure me that I'm selecting the correct parts, that would be great thanks.
**This isn't the Camco element but I was wondering if the ones McMaster sells would be ok??
(Qty: 2) Camco #02953 4500W 240VAC ultra low watt density (ULWD) RIPP element (http://www.mcmaster.com/#35555K32)
(Qty: 2) Weatherproof 2-gang outlet box with at least one 3/4" FPT access hole (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7219K26)
(Qty: 4) Weatherproof 2-gang blank cover & gasket (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7219K67)
***Is Zinc ok?
(Qty: 8) #6-32 machine screw hex nut (http://www.mcmaster.com/#90480A007)
**Is Zinc ok?
(Qty: 8) #6 locking washer (http://www.mcmaster.com/#91102A730)
(20 feet) 300V 10/3 wire (10 gauge, 3 wires), oil/water resistant, rubber coating, rated for outdoor use (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7422K28)
(2 feet) 3/4" heat shrink tubing (http://www.mcmaster.com/#74965K68)
(Qty: 6) 10 AWG wire ring terminals (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7113K321)
(20 feet) 1/2" expandable braided sleeving (http://www.mcmaster.com/#9284K414)
(Qty: 2) NEMA L6-30 (250VAC/30A) twist lock electrical plug (http://www.mcmaster.com/#69435K54)
(Qty: 1) JB Weld cold weld compound (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7605A11)
***Kal was already buying these parts from McMaster, so I'm good with these
(Qty: 2) Silicone high temperature o-ring (McMaster-Carr part number: 9396K38)
(1-3/16" ID x 1-7/16" OD x 1/8" width, AS568A Dash No. 217, Durometer hardness A70, FDA compliant, -65F to +450F)
(Qty: 1) Food grade silicone adhesive/sealant (McMaster-Carr part number: 7545A471)
(-75F to +400F, Food grade: Meets MIL-A-46106B, Group I, Type I, FDA compliant, USDA approved, NSF 51 certified)
(Qty: 2) Stainless steel washer/shim (McMaster-Carr part number: 96853a253)
(0.075" thick, 1-1/2" ID, 2-1/4" OD)
(Qty: 2) Standard straight cord/wire grip, 3/4" NPT (McMaster-Carr part number: 7529K533)
(For cord diameter .50" to 0.63", aluminum, -30F to +225F)
(Qty: 2) Stainless steel locknut 1" NPS (McMaster-Carr part number: 4464K586)
I'm not sure where the locking washer comes in, but if there is any chance of it getting wet I wouldn't use zinc. I've been fooled enough times to just assume it will corrode and get stainless instead
Didn't really look at the other things. Leave that for someone that's walked that path.
This has been beat to death and all the DYI will chime in for sure but bottom line you cant beat getting the kit from Kal. You will waste hours trying to find every part only to find you only saved a few bucks.
I wouldn't use zinc cause a small boil over or spill could cause it to corrode
That element is a plain jane regular element most folks are using "ultra low watt density". I've used both kinds, I started with the cheaper as I got them for free. After a year or so I switched to the fancy ripp elements... I didn't notice much difference.
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