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Old 04-28-2013, 12:10 AM   #11
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Did you say you were going to split the 120v hot lead and connect that to the two hot leads of the 240v? That would result in a direct short, the hot leads of a 240V system are both 120V but 180 degrees out of phase so the difference is 240V.

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Old 04-28-2013, 12:16 AM   #12
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Did you say you were going to split the 120v hot lead and connect that to the two hot leads of the 240v? That would result in a direct short, the hot leads of a 240V system are both 120V but 180 degrees out of phase so the difference is 240V.
Actually it will result in - nothing. Anything 240 hooked up will just see 0 V across the hots, and 120v to ground / neutral.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:21 AM   #13
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Your're right, I realized that as soon as I posted. Either way though its probably not a good idea. An ohmmeter and a triple check of the wiring to the diagram should be all that is needed. Although powering up an incorrectly wired panel will let you know where the problem is instantaneously.

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Old 04-28-2013, 01:51 AM   #14
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yup, meter everything out first. but a power on check doesn't hurt. when I did mine I realized I had the pumps and lights flipped on the wiring - forgot to mirror things when I wired from the backside.

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Old 04-28-2013, 03:43 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dan_HBT View Post
Your're right, I realized that as soon as I posted. Either way though its probably not a good idea. An ohmmeter and a triple check of the wiring to the diagram should be all that is needed. Although powering up an incorrectly wired panel will let you know where the problem is instantaneously.
Yes, I tested all of the circuits. I just wanted to see the pretty lights and hear the contactors click open and closed. But I'm going to wait.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:50 AM   #16
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Yes, I tested all of the circuits. I just wanted to see the pretty lights and hear the contactors click open and closed. But I'm going to wait.
A stronger man than I....I had as many lights on as soon as I could
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:47 PM   #17
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I don't know what there would be to reconfigure. I don't have any lights that run on 240v. Nothing is 240v except for the power going to the elements, which I'm not going to be testing.
If your panel is like my documented design(s) then yes, you can test it easily with a standard 120V / 15A outlet without any rewiring required. This is possible since all the devices inside are 120V. The only devices that require 240V are the heating elements.

You simply need to hook up the 3 wires (120V HOT, NEUTRAL, and GROUND) correctly.

I tested my 30A panel exactly like this back when I first built it:



Disclaimer: This is for testing purposes only. Even safer would have been to attach the 120V/15A power cord to the 30A locking connector (instead of how it attached above) so that I could plug it/unplug it saftely.

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Old 04-30-2013, 04:49 PM   #18
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You do see 0V on the voltmeter however as someone above pointed out:





But everything still works. You can test everything but the voltmeter and heating element receptacles.
The pumps will even work.

Kal

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