slakwhere

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so i've got to rip my control panel apart to add contactors and lighted switches for my elements (to keep from dry firing them, in case of SSR failure, etc).

looking at DIN mounted stuff, it appears that i could put all the terminal blocks in a row on a DIN rail and save a little space/time/effort... then put the contactors on it as well and be done.

if i put multiple Terminal Blocks next to each other, do they connect to one another? or is each block separate? in a perfect world i want a "grouping" of hot1, hot2, neutral and grounds.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SCHNEIDER-ELECTRIC-Terminal-Block-6PGG3?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

this has an exposed side, but i can't see the other side. will they connect to each other or are they all independent and i have to run jumpers to each one?

AllanMar

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No, not as they come. You need to install jumpers. That screw hole in the middle is to screw a jumper bar down to
ie:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SCHNEIDER-ELECTRIC-2Pole-Insulated-Jumpers-6PGG6?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1
They come in all different sizes, you should be able to find them that can be cut down to however many poles you need. Don't forget to get end caps (for the exposed side) and also end stops (to secure the terminal strips). You can also get spacers which provide a bit of seperation with different polarities/voltages side by side.

I've found automationdirect.com is good for larger qtys, I found allied electronics has good prices on a few pcs. Phoenix Contact is a big brand name Mfg, although tons of co's make these "UK style" ones.

wsender

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http://www.mouser.com/Phoenix-Contact/Connectors/Terminal-Blocks/DIN-Rail-Terminal-Blocks/_/N-7rqcb?P=1z0zljm

You might want to try that. Those are all the Phoenix Contact DIN terminal blocks available from Mouser. They come in every style, color, flavor imaginable. Use the filters up top to narrow your search and best of luck.

slakwhere

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Allan, that was exactly what i needed to hear. this method means i can still use both sides of each terminal while still bridging them all together. that's exactly what i was hoping for!

looking at Allied it seems my best bet is these:
Terminal blocks : http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70169573
Bridges : http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70169250
insulator/separator : http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70169218

AllanMar

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Yep, I prefer that style to the "UK style" (ones you originally posted) the jumpers are a bit nicer then the screw in version. Those are UT, so just make sure you don't end up mixing in any UK stuff (they look very similar).

AllanMar

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I forgot to mention you should probably also consider getting end stops:
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70169101

You use them to clamp down to the rail on either end of your terminal strip to "squish" everything together. You'll need them to hold the end cap securely on the final block.

slakwhere

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yeah i like the snap in jumpers, that'll be way easier/quicker than screws.

guess i'll have to do some math on how many i need, then add 10% because i'm gonna screw it up, then place an order!!

cheez

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I'm still confused on the terminal blocks. Most of the ones I have seen look like they have contacts on one side. If you put two blocks together with these contacts facing each other would that not work (i.e. no jumper needed in this case)? I'm looking at some on McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/749/=louxu6. I need at least a few that accept 6 ga (for my 50a service coming in) along with several that accept the 10-14ga range for power out to my components. There is a side note on this webpage that states "Jumpers connect terminals on adjacent blocks of the same width". The 6ga block is a different width than the other blocks. How do I connect different gauge blocks together? Thanks.

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AllanMar

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No, the two sides with exposed contacts should not face each other. They are not meant to pass power, and relying on this "press-fit" would not be a good idea.

You can either use a 6ga blocks which will also accept 10-14ga wire, although I'm not sure when you would want to do this.... If you are transitioning from 6ga to 10ga wire, you need to have a fuse/breaker to protect the smaller gauge wire.

Another common way (if you really need to do this) is to just use a wire to jumper power from the larger blocks to the group of smaller blocks.

cheez

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Since the 6ga blocks are wider than the others, I was hoping to save some space on the rail by going with different sizes. I do see the 6-20ga option so I will probably just go with those. I was planning on adding fuses downstream of the terminal blocks - at least in front of my PID's.

I cannot tell from McMaster's website if their "ground blocks" are electrically connected to the rail. Does anyone know? If they are connected I am assuming this would be an easy way to ground to the control panel.

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