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Old 03-31-2013, 07:48 PM   #81
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Actually, the fast-on disconnects from the OP are a very secure fit.

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Old 04-01-2013, 06:13 PM   #82
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I'm on the fence, but I think there are definitely people out there who might conclude that for a few $ extra the powercon's are worth the peace of mind.
I'm trying to imagine a scenario when I'll be stupid enough to plug one end of a Switchcraft cord into the control panel and then go and plug the other end of the same cord right back into the control panel. I mean, I can do some dumb things, but I don't think I could ever do anything quite that stupid. "Red cord goes to red pot, black cord goes to black pot, make sure the cord ends that are connected to the control panel are not the same color before turning anything on. Done!"

But if you can imagine yourself doing something that dumb, then yeah, spend the extra bucks.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:38 PM   #83
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I'm trying to imagine a scenario when I'll be stupid enough to plug one end of a Switchcraft cord into the control panel and then go and plug the other end of the same cord right back into the control panel. I mean, I can do some dumb things, but I don't think I could ever do anything quite that stupid. "Red cord goes to red pot, black cord goes to black pot, make sure the cord ends that are connected to the control panel are not the same color before turning anything on. Done!"

But if you can imagine yourself doing something that dumb, then yeah, spend the extra bucks.
If this is the case I would suggest brewing with a buddy, or back to gas fired you go....lol
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:03 PM   #84
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I got the Switchcraft HPC male and female connector in the mail yesterday. I am not particularly impressed with them. The male and female parts click together, not a satisfying clunk but the connection feels solid. The terminals are very close together, lack screw terminals, and the insulating barriers are extremely short, so insulated spade terminals are really the only way to go. I don't know how these can be recommended for 1500V and 50A.

My $0.02: They look and feel like the cheap Speakon knock offs they are.
Certainly don’t use anything that doesn’t feel right to you, that’s the nice part of DYI systems.
If you want that click when you push them together you can simply file the catch point with a flat file but what you will also add is adding “wiggle room” to the connection in order to get that click.
It’s funny; I like that the terminals are NOT screw down. I much prefer terminals that can solder on if needed, screws can come loose.
I wouldn’t recommend the use insulated blade terminals on their own; I suggest sliding shrink wrap all the way down covering everything, like the 7th image down on the OP.
When I rebuilt my BK housing (when from a Kal style box to a PVC tube) I inspected the plug and outlet under a 20x QC microscope to see if there was any burning or melting and I even compared it to the spare plug and outlet I have and they are unchanged. I’ve brewed 12 times (including one 3 hour boil) over the last year and have zero concerns/regrets about my set up.
Again, only do what you are comfortable with but really like my Switchcraft set up, it’s easier to uses and costs less the alternative and I have not found a down side to them.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:30 PM   #85
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I'm trying to imagine a scenario when I'll be stupid enough to plug one end of a Switchcraft cord into the control panel and then go and plug the other end of the same cord right back into the control panel. I mean, I can do some dumb things, but I don't think I could ever do anything quite that stupid. "Red cord goes to red pot, black cord goes to black pot, make sure the cord ends that are connected to the control panel are not the same color before turning anything on. Done!"

But if you can imagine yourself doing something that dumb, then yeah, spend the extra bucks.
Power terminals with definite gender are a basic safety feature. Terminals that are clearly identifiable as ground, neutral, and hot are better than ones that are not.

I like basic safety features and will pay for them. If that's dumb, well it's my money.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:58 PM   #86
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I like basic safety features and will pay for them. If that's dumb, well it's my money.
That's not what I said. I said that if you're the kind of person that could conceivably plug the control panel back into itself, then yes, you definitely should spend the extra bucks. People that could do something like that are perhaps a little too comfortable working around electricity. I'm terrified of the stuff, so I can't ever envision myself ever doing something like that. And yet here I am, building my own e-brewery.

If I were a vendor selling control panels, then I'd also spend the extra bucks, since I wouldn't want to get sued if someone I sold a panel to plugged the panel back into itself and then turned on the panel.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #87
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Could be wrong but I think the two of you might be talking about different thing:
wiring the plug/outlets (panel assembly)
and
brew day set up

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Old 04-01-2013, 08:12 PM   #88
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Could be wrong but I think the two of you might be talking about different thing:
wiring the plug/outlets (panel assembly)
and
brew day set up
Why yes, I do believe that we are!
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:22 PM   #89
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Ah, OK. Yes I am more concerned with wiring the thing up correctly. I am in a mire of spaghetti. I need colour coding, labels, anything that helps...

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Old 04-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #90
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So, they ARE marked on both plug and outlet, it's small but they are consistently marked allowing you to establish Leg 1 & 2, neutral and ground and wiring that way consistently throughout. But regardless of how well marked any component is or how sure you are that follow your digram I would recommend double checking the continuity on all the runs with a multi meter before powering up for the first time.

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