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Not Zacc, but it looks like he drilled holes for four panel mount fuse holders like I did and he has one installed in the back panel already.
 
Yep I have one fuse in but still need to add the others. My build is almost identical to jsguitar's except I added a second led light on the front and slightly canged the layout. I will be finishing the control panel this weekend and will post some more pictures when its done.
 
I've got a buddy who works in industrial electronics who's going to build mine, I'm just trying to figure out all the parts I need and give him all the info he needs to put it together correctly (because god knows I won't be much help if it doesnt work)
 
this would be perfect for my new setup!!!! anyone want to build me one? seriously i would pay for all parts plus some homebrew and cash for your time? i just dont have the tools or the time right now as i have a very active 2 year old son.
 
Ok. I hope you are ready for this as it becomes a little more complicated. BTW, I totally agree that an indicator light is needed to ensure some additional level of comfort with the system. The lamp will indicate if the switch is powering either element circuit.

The double pole - double throw - center off - switch needs to be changed out to a - Triple Pole - Double Throw - Center Off - switch in order to accommodate the indicator lamp.
Mouser PN 633-S33-RO (click it).
The indicator lamp shown is this one from
grainger.com PN 1XWL6 (click it). {BTW - the lamp is actually Amber in color. If you want a green one it's pn 1XWL4. Red is pn 1XWL1}


Now the new diagram (click on the image for a full scale drawing printable on tabloid paper 11" x 17")



Where else are you going to get a custom diagram.
ROTFLMAO.gif


I really enjoy the mind jumps I go through to come up with the plans.
I sure hope this helps you.

Best regards,
P-J

So I'm planning a shopping list for this build

Auber Box: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=143
Auber PID
Element outlets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Pump Outlets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ATXFMS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Cord Grip: http://www.mcmaster.com/ part# 69915K72
Indicator Lamp: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...uery=1XWL6&op=search&Ntt=1XWL6&N=0&sst=subset
SSR: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30
Heat Sink: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=77

Where should(links please) I get the Bus bars, watt resistors, all the fuses/fuse holders, and E-stop?
Also I see two different pictures of switches in the diagram. I assume 1 is listed above. But where can I get 2,3,and 4.
What wire gauges do I need for what connections?(If I'm forgetting any parts please lemme know)
For peace of mind remember I'm not building this, just gathering the parts
 
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Hey Thunder, I have a spreadsheet with some of the items I used in my build. The list is based off of one in a post by P-J but modified with items specific to my build. This is not a complete list and a few of the items on the list are for other components of the build (such as SS shims and silicon O-rings). Once I finish my build and get some free time I hope to put together a better list.

It doesn't seem like I can attach a spreadsheet so send me a private with your email and I can send it to you.
 
Yes. If you look up the fuse holder and read the fuse info it calls for a 1/4" x 1-1/4" glass fuse. The link I posted gives you the full list of that type (AGC) fuse.

Also - I edited the last post to link the push button switches in the diagram.
 
Ok, I got it put together!

I can't test it fully yet for a couple of reasons. I had a leak in a sight glass and am waiting on the replacement for that and I also damaged my element in the boil kettle because my hole was just a tiny bit too small. It got stuck so I ended up using a piece of wood and a hammer to get it out. It looked liked I knocked the base loose so I ordered a replacement.

I also have to clean and organize my basement in order to make space in the laundry room. Not looking forward to that.

I tested it with my multimeter a lot along the way, checking continuity at every point before powering it up and checking voltage at the outlets once it was powered. I'll need to hook up the rtd probe later and figure out the pid to check everything, but at this point everything seems perfect.

I had some small tragedies with the hole saw. I'm an idiot with a hole saw apparently and it took me a while to realize I needed to make a jig by cutting a hole in a piece of wood to guide the thing. I had only drilled a pilot hole and clamped a piece of wood behind it at first. I broke the first pilot bit in the mandrel trying to make a hole for the GFCI outlet....it snapped and the saw jumped. I didn't learn. I then broke another I had, and then bent drill bits I used as guides. :mad: I finally got it cut and then proceeded to destroy the back of the control panel! I finally got it right after that with the jig and it was a breeze.

Anyway, you'll see that I filed, sanded, and painted the tragic gouges in the GFCI and control panel. For the GFCI, I used the gray primer and silver hammered metal paint that I was using for the element boxes. For the control panel I used a flat black 2000 degree auto exhaust paint. It worked well and I used it on the front too to clean up some smaller scratches and nicks.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician and don't even play one on TV so do not use my electrical work as a guide. This is dangerous! Consult an electrician!!!

Anyway, with that out of the way lots of pictures to load.

Pic 1: hole saw tragedy on back of control panel
Pic 2: damaged bits
Pic 3: jig....finally!
Pic 4: filed and sanded gouges out
Pic 5: final back of panel after painting


More pics in next post.

What size holes are the outlets, cord grip, and RTD input? (I have step bits and a hole saw, but I'm considering buying a conduit punch or two depending on your answers)
 
All the switches, led's, fuse holders and the RTD input are 1/2" hole. I first tried usign a 1/2" bit, it worked but gave a very rough cut. I then tried using a step bit which worked much better.

I dont remember the exact dimenstion for the 220 and 120 outlets. I think they were like 1 1/2 and 1 1/8. The cord grip was about 1". I can double check these when I get home tonight if no one else has posted the exact measurements for you. The one thing i do remember is i had a hole saw that fit the larger one and one that was just a bit too small for the smaller one. For the smaller plugs i used the smaller hole saw and then used a step bit to widen it. I would advise not to do this. If i were to do it again I would just buy another hole saw that fit, it worked much faster and gave a cleaner cut than the step but.

As jsguitar posted earlier in this thread when using a hole saw use a template. So take a 2x4 or something and drill a hole through that first, then clamp that to the metal where you want the hole and use the hole in the 2x4 as a guide. You probably dont need to do this if you have a drill press and can just clamp the metal piece down but if using a hand drill i highly recommend doing this.
 
This weekend I was hoping to finish my project but as projects go they always take longer than expected.

I did finish off the stand and some more of the electrical including the fan control box. I also got the fan mounted and nearly complted the vent hood.

After work was almost done on the vent hood we held it up to see how it would fit and try and measure where to cut the hole for the vent. At this point i realized how heavy the thing was. I constructed it out of 2x6 to match the bench, it looks good but probably ways 80+ pounds. The ceiling where i'm hanging it is finished and I know theres some electric running there so i'm not comfortable using screws of the length needed to properly secure this. I think i'm going to rebuild it out of 1x6 and lightweight plywood on the back/top, this should reduce the weight by at least 60% and give me the same look.

One important thing that I got done was hooking up the satelite tv!

I got a little more wiring done on the control box but don't have any more pictures. Really all I have left is to wire the last fuse, SSR and PID.

Here are a few pictures of my progress.

IMG-20110905-00101.jpg


IMG-20110905-00103.jpg


IMG-20110905-00104.jpg
 
Looking great zacc!

Thunder, I think the small outlet hole is about 1 3/8 (maybe just a tad under-like 1 5/16ths) and the larger is about 1 9/16ths. zacc is right that it's best to get a hole saw of the right size and make a template and clamp it all down tightly if you don't have a drill press. I worked much harder on my larger holes than I should have. I used a step bit on the first outlet holes and filed and used a dremel grinding bit to get it where I wanted, so the hole is an unusual size that just barely fits the outlet. On the bigger ones I think I used a 1 1/2" hole saw and had to open the holes up just a tad. It's a little hard to measure them perfectly with the way I have it set up right now, but I believe the sizes I stated are correct. Hopefully zacc will comment later too. Personally, I would wait until you get the outlets and measure very carefully before getting the tools just to be safe.

The resistors can be bought on Amazon. The ones I found were flameproof but the shipping is like 5x's the cost of the resistors. They come in a pack of ten. You might consider looking locally for those.

I linked the switches that I would've used instead of the ones I actually used a few pages back (toggle switches) but the switches P-J linked are cooler. Also, for these smaller load ones, if you haven't made your order yet, Auber has some illuminated ones there also.

Hope this helps some.
 
Gotcha. I'm lucky enough to have a drill press at my disposal. :mug:
Alright, I'll definitely wait until I get the outlets. I'll just pick up the holesaws. I was just thinking something like this
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...cessories_-_Fractional_-a-_Metric_size/109225
would be perfect for the project since I have to make 4 holes(maybe 5 for the indicator light?) that this project has if I buy the push button and illuminated switches P-J recommended.
 
I double checked my cuts and got the following hole sizes; 220 outlet - 1 1/2", 120 outlet - 1 1/4", cord grip 1 1/4".

For the 220's I used a hole saw that fit perfectly. I didn't have a 1 1/4" hole saw but had a 1 1/8th so I used that and then widened it with a step bit for the 120.

I cut the cord grip hole a little later and had actually purchased this punch by that point. The main reason I got it was for putting the holes in my kettles for the heating elements. It worked great for the cord grip, wish I would of had it for the two 120 cuts.

Getting a small one of these punches for all the 1/2 holes would probably be a worthy investment.
 
Whew, Greenlee punches are too rich for my all aluminum kettle blood. I think I'm gonna buy my 22.5mm punch for the buttons and will get a 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" hole saws.
 
Whew, Greenlee punches are too rich for my all aluminum kettle blood. I think I'm gonna buy my 22.5mm punch for the buttons and will get a 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" hole saws.
Take a look at what is available at Harbor Freight - http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html

The dies are sized for conduit connectors so you need to measure carefully first.

Also, you might be able to use this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html

HTH..
 
Would you recommend those punches? I'm scared of em. They get pretty bad reviews. I already have both of those step bits :mug:

I figure since I have a drill press the hole saws are viable. I was gonna grab Dewalts.(plus I have some amazon credit so I can get em for like 10 bucks shipped)

I feel like the holesaws(with drill press) will produce much cleaner holes than step bits. I just like the one punch I listed because its like the perfect size for the job.
 
Would you recommend those punches? I'm scared of em. They get pretty bad reviews. I already have both of those step bits :mug:

I figure since I have a drill press the hole saws are viable. I was gonna grab Dewalts.(plus I have some amazon credit so I can get em for like 10 bucks shipped)

I feel like the holesaws(with drill press) will produce much cleaner holes than step bits. I just like the one punch I listed because its like the perfect size for the job.
I cannot make judgment on your situation.

Personally, I do not have a problem with the tools that I linked. I've used them without problems.

I strongly recommend that you use what you are comfortable with. You only get one chance to do it right.! Doing it wrong will cost you one hell of a lot more than you think.

P-J
 
Just because it's a drill press, does not mean a hole saw will be better. I tried a hole saw in a DP and the results were bad. Had much better luck with a uni-bit. a punch would have been faster.
 
I haven't used the harbor freight punches but I imagine they would work fine on the thin gauge box.

Based on the punch I have used I would say punches will give you the best result, next would be hole saw, then step bit. Punches are also probably the most expensive route, although those HF ones aren't bad if they fit what you need.
 
Will those HF punches fit the Estop and switches?
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...adc.falcon.search.SearchFormCtrl&TxnNumber=-1

Now I'm looking into what wire I need. What gauge wire should I use inside the GFI box? Inside the control panel what connections need 10AWG and what connections need 14AWG. (Can I just buy a spool of 12 AWG?)

I used both 10 and 14 gauge. The 10 is needed for the circuits that connect the elements. The other circuits can use the smaller wire. You probably don't need a whole spool of any one color. I just went to home depot and bought cable by the foot in the color and size I needed.
 
I finally finished wiring my control box last night! I still need to put together the spa box before I can plug it in. I also need to install the heating elements and finish up the venting before the new brewery is reay to go. Getting very close! Here are a few pics of the finished box. :mug:

IMG-20110907-00110.jpg


IMG-20110908-00113.jpg


IMG-20110908-00114.jpg
 
Nice zacc!

I didn't realize the bus bars had covers, very nice. I guess that makes sense being that they're for a marine application.

It's cool seeing all the different iterations of this build.

Thanks for posting pics.:cool:
 
I got some parts in today! Ill start my own thread when I finish. Here's what mine looks like so far. We need a name for this build.

ForumRunner_20110908_214942.jpg
 
Wow. Looks great.

I never realized how much influence I might have had in the mission of going electric in brewing with my diagram illustrations.

I keep researching and scheming. I think I'll quit while I'm ahead.
 
Don't quit P-J!

This was so much fun that one of these days I may do another one just for the fun of it.

Seriously, there's quite a few of us that went electric just because of your diagrams and personal help.

Adam, love those switches, can't wait to see the rest.
 
Thanks so much for your encouragement.

I wish that I had a way to post all of the diagrams and info in one place on the forum without links to my host. It would need to have the capacity to host the large images which is not possible now. I'm really concerned that all of my 'stuff' will be lost after a bit as I'm growing really old. I currently host all of my diagrams on my own personal web site. (You would not believe the number of custom diagrams I made. A lot of them have been done through PM's from fellow brewers that I tried to help.)

I fear the end. When that happens all is lost.

Sigh...
P-J
Paul
 
Well, maybe there could be a P-J diagram sticky on this forum where all your relevant diagrams could be listed? Links could be provided to builds that specifically followed one of your diagrams too. I'm not sure about size requirements, but maybe it could work. It's certainly deserving.

If you haven't yet, make sure and save them all in a hard copy form too so they're not lost.

Keep it up man, you're needed here!
:mug:
 
Yeah please don't quit PJ! We definitely need a sticky or a wiki where someone can look for the setup they want and find pictures diagrams and links to build threads.

I was just thinking about something on mine. All of my controls are on the lid which is not hinged. That's going to make it hard to open it up and set the list somewhere safe. Would it be possible to create a wire harness so I can remove the lid? Anyone have any experience with something like this? Is it hard to do?
 
I was just thinking about something on mine. All of my controls are on the lid which is not hinged. That's going to make it hard to open it up and set the list somewhere safe. Would it be possible to create a wire harness so I can remove the lid? Anyone have any experience with something like this? Is it hard to do?

Can you just hinge the lid? I did something similar with mine and it was very easy to do. I actually hinged a plate that's under my lid, but it's the same idea.

IMG_5439s.jpg
 
Kevink, I suppose I could give that a try. How did you get your wires to lay like that? Did you glue them?
 
Thanks, Thunder etc.!

Adamcanfly,
No glue. I bent the wires into the shapes they needed to be and only rely on the ring terminals to hold them in place. I also used four cable tie mounting bases for the wires that go from the control panel chassis to the top plate. You can just make out two of them on the right side of the photo.
 
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