P-J

Recipes 

Ok. I hope you are ready for this as it becomes a little more complicated. BTW, I totally agree that an indicator light is needed to ensure some additional level of comfort with the system. The lamp will indicate if the switch is powering either element circuit.

The double pole - double throw - center off - switch needs to be changed out to a - Triple Pole - Double Throw - Center Off - switch in order to accommodate the indicator lamp.
Mouser PN 633-S33-RO (click it).
The indicator lamp shown is this one from
grainger.com PN 1XWL6 (click it). {BTW - the lamp is actually Amber in color. If you want a green one it's pn 1XWL4. Red is pn 1XWL1}


Now the new diagram (click on the image for a full scale drawing printable on tabloid paper 11" x 17")



Where else are you going to get a custom diagram.

I really enjoy the mind jumps I go through to come up with the plans.
I sure hope this helps you.

Best regards,
P-J

jsguitar

Recipes 

Thanks again P-J for coming to the rescue with your awesome diagrams. I should've considered it sooner but you know how it goes. I'm going to add this in. As you say, it's a little piece of mind to keep me from accidentally leaving an element on.

Ok, no more changes, starting....now!

P-J

Recipes 

You are more than welcome. When you get it done and test it all out (brew some beer) be sure to update the thread with some more with pictures. I'd like to see it all.
Wait, wait - Now what am I going to do with my time?

Spoil sport!

jsguitar

Recipes 

P-J, would this toggle switch from Grainger work?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK-Toggle-Switch-2TPD4?Pid=search


It turns out they have a location right down the street!

P-J

Recipes 

Absolutely. It's a great match. Go for it.

jsguitar

Recipes 

Thanks, now I can just go pick 'em up.

jsguitar

Recipes 

Got most of everything I need finally.

I just planned out the front and back panels and drilled the front.

Here's what the front panel looks like with the switches attached. I used a step drill. I ended up having to enlarge the holes a bit after the second pic. I really undersized the E-stop switch initially for some reason.

The first switch is for the PID, then HLT/BK elements switch with indicator light above, then the two pump switches and the big yellow-so you can't miss it even if your buzzed- e-stop switch.

I have a lot of time this week so I'm going to shoot for finishing it and my kettles before the end of the next weekend.

ZooKeeper

Recipes 

jsguitar/P-J, thanks for starting this thread & the drawings. This is the the same simple setup I've been considering. This is a another step for me to pull the trigger.

jsguitar - can't wait to see the finished product.

ZooKeeper

Recipes 

P-J, can you show me what this would look like with a 3 way switch for the elements (HLT/OFF/BOIL) & an indicator for both elements? A couple of other things I am considering - a power switch for the whole panel (or is that the thought of the e-stop to use it?) & also a timer with a alarm switch, reset button & buzzer.

P-J

Recipes 

ZooKeeper,

The diagram you asked for is done. I changed the original in this thread to add a second indicator light to show which element is selected. The master power switch request will jump you build expense quite a bit. That change would require an additional switch and a contactor. I feel it is really not necessary. Everything is controlled through the existing switches. (You should never be working inside the controller while it is plugged in anyway. The EPO is designed to kill all power in the event of an emergency. It will do just that but you MUST have a GFCI circuit breaker either in your mains panel or in a sub panel feeding your brewery.)

I added the circuits to implement the Auber Instruments Timer. How you use it and wire its output is totally up to you. The ASL-51 Timer Manual can be found With This Link.

Now for the diagram: (Click on the image for the full scale image - printable on Tabloid paper 11" x 17")



I hope this helps you.