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Old 09-06-2011, 01:49 PM   #131
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Yes. If you look up the fuse holder and read the fuse info it calls for a 1/4" x 1-1/4" glass fuse. The link I posted gives you the full list of that type (AGC) fuse.

Also - I edited the last post to link the push button switches in the diagram.

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Old 09-06-2011, 01:51 PM   #132
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Nice, think those will fit onto the auber project box? (I'm gonna have an external heatsink)

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Old 09-06-2011, 01:59 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsguitar View Post
Ok, I got it put together!

I can't test it fully yet for a couple of reasons. I had a leak in a sight glass and am waiting on the replacement for that and I also damaged my element in the boil kettle because my hole was just a tiny bit too small. It got stuck so I ended up using a piece of wood and a hammer to get it out. It looked liked I knocked the base loose so I ordered a replacement.

I also have to clean and organize my basement in order to make space in the laundry room. Not looking forward to that.

I tested it with my multimeter a lot along the way, checking continuity at every point before powering it up and checking voltage at the outlets once it was powered. I'll need to hook up the rtd probe later and figure out the pid to check everything, but at this point everything seems perfect.

I had some small tragedies with the hole saw. I'm an idiot with a hole saw apparently and it took me a while to realize I needed to make a jig by cutting a hole in a piece of wood to guide the thing. I had only drilled a pilot hole and clamped a piece of wood behind it at first. I broke the first pilot bit in the mandrel trying to make a hole for the GFCI outlet....it snapped and the saw jumped. I didn't learn. I then broke another I had, and then bent drill bits I used as guides. I finally got it cut and then proceeded to destroy the back of the control panel! I finally got it right after that with the jig and it was a breeze.

Anyway, you'll see that I filed, sanded, and painted the tragic gouges in the GFCI and control panel. For the GFCI, I used the gray primer and silver hammered metal paint that I was using for the element boxes. For the control panel I used a flat black 2000 degree auto exhaust paint. It worked well and I used it on the front too to clean up some smaller scratches and nicks.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician and don't even play one on TV so do not use my electrical work as a guide. This is dangerous! Consult an electrician!!!

Anyway, with that out of the way lots of pictures to load.

Pic 1: hole saw tragedy on back of control panel
Pic 2: damaged bits
Pic 3: jig....finally!
Pic 4: filed and sanded gouges out
Pic 5: final back of panel after painting


More pics in next post.
What size holes are the outlets, cord grip, and RTD input? (I have step bits and a hole saw, but I'm considering buying a conduit punch or two depending on your answers)
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:56 PM   #134
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All the switches, led's, fuse holders and the RTD input are 1/2" hole. I first tried usign a 1/2" bit, it worked but gave a very rough cut. I then tried using a step bit which worked much better.

I dont remember the exact dimenstion for the 220 and 120 outlets. I think they were like 1 1/2 and 1 1/8. The cord grip was about 1". I can double check these when I get home tonight if no one else has posted the exact measurements for you. The one thing i do remember is i had a hole saw that fit the larger one and one that was just a bit too small for the smaller one. For the smaller plugs i used the smaller hole saw and then used a step bit to widen it. I would advise not to do this. If i were to do it again I would just buy another hole saw that fit, it worked much faster and gave a cleaner cut than the step but.

As jsguitar posted earlier in this thread when using a hole saw use a template. So take a 2x4 or something and drill a hole through that first, then clamp that to the metal where you want the hole and use the hole in the 2x4 as a guide. You probably dont need to do this if you have a drill press and can just clamp the metal piece down but if using a hand drill i highly recommend doing this.

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Old 09-06-2011, 03:11 PM   #135
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This weekend I was hoping to finish my project but as projects go they always take longer than expected.

I did finish off the stand and some more of the electrical including the fan control box. I also got the fan mounted and nearly complted the vent hood.

After work was almost done on the vent hood we held it up to see how it would fit and try and measure where to cut the hole for the vent. At this point i realized how heavy the thing was. I constructed it out of 2x6 to match the bench, it looks good but probably ways 80+ pounds. The ceiling where i'm hanging it is finished and I know theres some electric running there so i'm not comfortable using screws of the length needed to properly secure this. I think i'm going to rebuild it out of 1x6 and lightweight plywood on the back/top, this should reduce the weight by at least 60% and give me the same look.

One important thing that I got done was hooking up the satelite tv!

I got a little more wiring done on the control box but don't have any more pictures. Really all I have left is to wire the last fuse, SSR and PID.

Here are a few pictures of my progress.

img-20110905-00101.jpg   img-20110905-00103.jpg   img-20110905-00104.jpg  
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:59 PM   #136
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Looking great zacc!

Thunder, I think the small outlet hole is about 1 3/8 (maybe just a tad under-like 1 5/16ths) and the larger is about 1 9/16ths. zacc is right that it's best to get a hole saw of the right size and make a template and clamp it all down tightly if you don't have a drill press. I worked much harder on my larger holes than I should have. I used a step bit on the first outlet holes and filed and used a dremel grinding bit to get it where I wanted, so the hole is an unusual size that just barely fits the outlet. On the bigger ones I think I used a 1 1/2" hole saw and had to open the holes up just a tad. It's a little hard to measure them perfectly with the way I have it set up right now, but I believe the sizes I stated are correct. Hopefully zacc will comment later too. Personally, I would wait until you get the outlets and measure very carefully before getting the tools just to be safe.

The resistors can be bought on Amazon. The ones I found were flameproof but the shipping is like 5x's the cost of the resistors. They come in a pack of ten. You might consider looking locally for those.

I linked the switches that I would've used instead of the ones I actually used a few pages back (toggle switches) but the switches P-J linked are cooler. Also, for these smaller load ones, if you haven't made your order yet, Auber has some illuminated ones there also.

Hope this helps some.

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Old 09-06-2011, 09:29 PM   #137
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Gotcha. I'm lucky enough to have a drill press at my disposal.
Alright, I'll definitely wait until I get the outlets. I'll just pick up the holesaws. I was just thinking something like this
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Tools/Hole_Cutting_Tools/Knockout_Punches_-a-_Accessories_-_Fractional_-a-_Metric_size/109225
would be perfect for the project since I have to make 4 holes(maybe 5 for the indicator light?) that this project has if I buy the push button and illuminated switches P-J recommended.

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Old 09-07-2011, 03:12 AM   #138
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I double checked my cuts and got the following hole sizes; 220 outlet - 1 1/2", 120 outlet - 1 1/4", cord grip 1 1/4".

For the 220's I used a hole saw that fit perfectly. I didn't have a 1 1/4" hole saw but had a 1 1/8th so I used that and then widened it with a step bit for the 120.

I cut the cord grip hole a little later and had actually purchased this punch by that point. The main reason I got it was for putting the holes in my kettles for the heating elements. It worked great for the cord grip, wish I would of had it for the two 120 cuts.

Getting a small one of these punches for all the 1/2 holes would probably be a worthy investment.

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Old 09-07-2011, 09:30 PM   #139
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Whew, Greenlee punches are too rich for my all aluminum kettle blood. I think I'm gonna buy my 22.5mm punch for the buttons and will get a 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" hole saws.

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Old 09-07-2011, 09:43 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundercougarfalconbird View Post
Whew, Greenlee punches are too rich for my all aluminum kettle blood. I think I'm gonna buy my 22.5mm punch for the buttons and will get a 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" hole saws.
Take a look at what is available at Harbor Freight - http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html

The dies are sized for conduit connectors so you need to measure carefully first.

Also, you might be able to use this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html

HTH..
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