Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Last Sponsor Giveaway of the Year!

Come Enter the BrewDeals/FastFerment Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Steppping stone between BIAB and a 5500 watt eBIAB setup
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 08-05-2013, 11:01 PM   #11
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

thank you very much for pointing that out. totally did that wrong.

__________________
bemerritt is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-14-2013, 04:20 PM   #12
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Finally, some picture proof that I am progressing.

At first I was going to build my panel from scratch with a clear front panel. Had It all mounted like this:



But I woke up in the morning with several stress cracks around some of the switches that I had probably tightened too much. So that led me to a 14"x10" box as seen below:



I'm pretty happy with it, especially since a co worker gave it to me as it had two holes cut incorrectly in it. I just placed the PID and timer strategically toe cover them.

Here is a shot of the wiring I have done so far. Really pushing to brew on it this weekend since the SWMBO is out of town and I can have some personal time with the new rig.



My question is, is it ok to connect all of the hot's together like this for the input side of a switch? Or should I run more than one back to the hot bus?



Also, for those thinking about doing any electric build, make sure you have a pair of these:



Lastly,, I decided to use all twist lock connections at the box side of things. here are the power cords.

__________________
bemerritt is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-14-2013, 08:38 PM   #13
mrwizard0
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 433
Liked 21 Times on 20 Posts

Default

Running the hot together is fine and way easier

__________________
mrwizard0 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-14-2013, 09:17 PM   #14
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Yeah, I figured as long as the load can be handled by the 14 gauge wire, it will be fine. It is only powering a couple of lights, the pump and the PID directly, so it will be good.

__________________
bemerritt is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-16-2013, 03:43 PM   #15
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Alright fine people of these forums, I could really use some tips on troubleshooting my system. I know this will be hard without pics, but for the time being I am at work.

Therefore I'll list some of the issues I'm having and if you could possibly offer some insight on the first things you would check that would be great.

After plugging in the system....
- Neither the PID or timer show any signs of life
- Most of the switches turn on and off their respective lights
- One of the switches has an effect on the other lights
- One of the lights will be light with a dim pulsing even when in the off position

My plan is to start by getting the PID to turn on and move forward from there. What is the minimum requirements for that sucker to turn on? Just a hot and neutral connection?

Thanks for any advice. Hopefully I'll figure this out before the planned brew day on sunday.

__________________
bemerritt is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-16-2013, 11:22 PM   #16
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,283
Liked 259 Times on 207 Posts
Likes Given: 454

Default

Show us your exact wiring plan. Specifically how you have wired the PID and Timer.

Something is wrong.

__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2013, 12:26 AM   #17
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

I will sketch it out when I get home. I wired it according to the pic on page one, but with the change we discussed. Obviously that doesn't have the timer in it, but that is the least of my worries right now. I'm sure I wired it wrong (at least i hope so).

__________________
bemerritt is offline
P-J Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2013, 06:04 AM   #18
craigmw
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Villa Park, CA
Posts: 188
Liked 18 Times on 14 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

I would suggest working systematically through your circuit, disconnecting the SSRs and contactors so that the only thing being fed is the controller. Once you verify that you are getting power to this, you can start adding back different circuit legs until you identify where the problems exist. Of course, as you are working with 120V power from two separate circuits, care is needed. Do you have a multimeter?

__________________
craigmw is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-19-2013, 05:24 PM   #19
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Well what do you know, the problems I stated above were fixed within 30 minutes of troubleshooting. To sum it up, I incorrectly had the neutral connecting the bus to the components. Also, i put the second heater element switch onto the same line as the heater element itself.

Overall I am very pleased with the result. It took myself exactly 3 weeks from beginning to end even with being out of town two of those weekends.

First brew session went fairly well. Even at 100% I wasn't quite getting as vigorous of a boil as I wanted/expected. Therefore I am now looking into insulating my keggle with some of this .

Some pics from yesterdays brew.





a mounted it using some old 80/20 stuff lying around





up next is some ventilation. Thinking about using a 10"to 8" and then 8" to 6" reducers followed by a fan and some elbows.

__________________
bemerritt is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-20-2013, 07:04 PM   #20
bemerritt
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 215
Liked 16 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

So on Sunday I was brewing a batch of beer on my new electric rig and it donned on me that I could easily do sous vide with it(Since then, i've read the extensive discussions about it here) So last night was my first attempt at some steak.



salt, pepper and 75 minutes at 126 later...



Meat, (sweet) potatoes and a homebrew. For me, it doesn't get much better than that.

__________________
bemerritt is offline
Flomaster Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Camco 5500 watt elements Mobtown Electric Brewing 4 10-22-2012 09:08 PM
two 5500 watt elements on 50 amp breaker? stevehaun Electric Brewing 23 01-08-2012 06:42 PM
Sold - (2) 5500 watt heating elements wegz15 For Sale 10 08-20-2011 03:22 AM
5500 watt ripp element pp270 Brew Stands 8 02-01-2010 04:00 AM
5500 watt element Brewpastor Equipment/Sanitation 18 03-20-2007 05:35 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS