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Old 02-17-2013, 11:22 AM   #11
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I built my own thermowell based on some research from another site. I used this part called an Anders-Line compression fitting. It is a compression type fitting to copper pipe & has threads to go through the bulkhead. Used a brass nut & O ring to seal it. See attached pics. I may have put it too high on my pan though.







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Old 02-17-2013, 11:24 AM   #12
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So is there any advice to connect the controller to a relay to protect it better?



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Old 02-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #13
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Assuming you are using this to heat strike/sparge water you shouldn't be cycling that frequently. That unit has a minimum 0.5C hysteresis on it. Assuming you have at least 4 gallons in the pot it will take a few minutes for the water to cool that much. If you were concerned about it you could up the hysteresis term to 1-2C, but I would just leave it and see how often it cycles. With regards to wether the probe can handle boiling temp, just pull the probe out, you're going to want the element on full bore anyway, your boiling wort is going to be at 100C, probe no longer necessary. Having said all that, have you checked the current rating of the unit vs. your element. If memory serves it is rated at 10A, but I never payed that much attention as I'm only switching a 1.5A device. Any more than that and you'll want an external relay. Sparkfun.com has (had at least) an extension cord rated at 15A with a built in relay that triggers off of 5V that I think is cheaper than all the components separately. That and a wall wort switched by your STC and you'd be all set.

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:38 PM   #14
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Thanks for your help!

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:07 AM   #15
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Your home made thermowell looks great. Here is a link to some probes that should work to replace the one that came with it. Not all on this page will work. The ones labeled 10K ohm would be the ones your looking for as far as I can tell.

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Old 02-26-2013, 09:06 PM   #16
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Do you know if the relays in this controller can be replaced or upgraded?

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Old 02-26-2013, 09:24 PM   #17
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I have heard of some setups that use the output of the STC1000 to control the coil of an external relay, so you can provide more power to the load (element in your case).


You'd need a 120v coil relay or contactor.

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Old 02-26-2013, 10:35 PM   #18
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So I would put the external relay between the outputs & my receptacle for my element plug? Still i think i have to replace the outputs because i think i fried them. They are not sending power to the receptacle lime it was.

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:03 AM   #19
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If you aren't getting anything from the STC1000 relay now, it's probably scrap. There's no repairing cheap units like that, just pitch it and get another.

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:27 AM   #20
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You fried it.
Also, it's not a PID... those are completely different.
If you're using this to heat, and you want a steady temp, use a PID, SSR, and the pt100 sensor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-F-C-PID-Temperature-Controller-Output-J-S-K-E-TA7-SNR-SSR-25DA-PT100-/140755146526?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c5a9 171e



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