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Old 03-28-2014, 10:42 PM   #31
inda_bebe
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Just to make sure its wired right.



A & B = From Line 1 and 2
C = Switch or SSR ?
E & D = To the Elements
F = Switch or SSR?

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Old 03-28-2014, 10:51 PM   #32
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I believe that is correct. Without the ability to see the actual product it is difficult to make a judgement.

P-J

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Old 03-30-2014, 01:21 AM   #33
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Planning on making a smaller version of this.
4500W in BK and HLT using the PWM for the BK.
Interested in hearing how things go.
Let us know what problems you have and if you could keep a running parts list that would be great!

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Old 03-31-2014, 04:05 PM   #34
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i just hooked up my potentiometer just to see how good it will be for the boil kettle and works great. now im gonna hook everything up soon.

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Old 04-01-2014, 03:17 AM   #35
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Double checking on the switches. Are these switches on the diagram rated for this setup?

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Old 04-23-2014, 10:55 PM   #36
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is this the correct switch to handle this setup? just checking the correct part no.

"gcx3264-120v"

which color block should i be using? the green or red block

or normallyl open or closed blocks?

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Old 04-24-2014, 12:20 AM   #37
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The blocks it comes with are 2NO and 2NC blocks. 2 meaning 2 spots for two lines/wires. NO or normally open means the circuit is incomplete, NC means normally closed. The switches I assume are meant to control power to the contactor(s). Set switch to "ON" and power runs though the switch to the hot side of the coil to activate the contactor. You want NO here. No power to coil until it runs through the NO switch.

If you wanted something to be on while the other is off you can add the other NC block. As for the color just read the block (if you bought the switch) or read through the pdf. provided on the website.

I highly suggest reading through some of Kal's electric brewery site and learning about switches and other components. It really does help.

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Old 04-24-2014, 12:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojzis View Post
I highly suggest reading through some of Kal's electric brewery site and learning about switches and other components. It really does help.
Switches can be especially confusing as they came in 3 parts (contact blocks or "contactors", body, and operator/selector):



Sometimes you purchase them separately. You can add extra contactors too and swap them around depending on what you want. Complete details how they work here.

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Old 04-24-2014, 12:38 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojzis View Post
The blocks it comes with are 2NO and 2NC blocks. 2 meaning 2 spots for two lines/wires. NO or normally open means the circuit is incomplete, NC means normally closed. The switches I assume are meant to control power to the contactor(s). Set switch to "ON" and power runs though the switch to the hot side of the coil to activate the contactor. You want NO here. No power to coil until it runs through the NO switch.

If you wanted something to be on while the other is off you can add the other NC block. As for the color just read the block (if you bought the switch) or read through the pdf. provided on the website.

I highly suggest reading through some of Kal's electric brewery site and learning about switches and other components. It really does help.
Excellent advice. He is in way over his head.

Very scary indeed...
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