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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > SSR then Contactor or Contactor then SSR?
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:35 PM   #11
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Thanks Jeff.

I was just thinking that if the PID is sending the PWM signal to the SSR and the SSR has power to it that the SSR would still be switching the power output on and off rapidly and this would still use power. -I "get it" with a simple circuit but with the switching mechanism of an SSR I think the added complexity just made me second guess this.


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Old 12-11-2012, 10:47 PM   #12
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The 110v and 220v LED panel mount indicators are about $3 each from ebay and other sources.
Personally, I would want to know if there is 220v (or 110v) at the output connector, regardless of the control signal input. For example, if the SSR fails shorted, the element light will be ON.

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Old 12-11-2012, 11:35 PM   #13
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The 110v and 220v LED panel mount indicators are about $3 each from ebay and other sources.
Personally, I would want to know if there is 220v (or 110v) at the output connector, regardless of the control signal input. For example, if the SSR fails shorted, the element light will be ON.
I agree. I think that's the smartest thing especially for me since my system will not have a liquid level safety mechanism and that would mean that I'm dry-firing the element...


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Old 12-12-2012, 12:26 AM   #14
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I agree. I think that's the smartest thing especially for me since my system will not have a liquid level safety mechanism and that would mean that I'm dry-firing the element...


Adam
Why would you be dry-firing the element if you have a switch to a contactor that cuts both hot legs to the element? Don't turn the switch on unless the element is submerged.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:17 AM   #15
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Why would you be dry-firing the element if you have a switch to a contactor that cuts both hot legs to the element? Don't turn the switch on unless the element is submerged.
I just like safeties for my safeties. The contactor is definitely a safety feature against an SSR failing open and dry firing your element, an appropriately placed light is a visual indicator that such a thing is happening.
-To put this in Risk Management terms: the contactor is a Preventative Control and the LED indicator is a Detective Control -both have their place in Risk Management and both together help to mitigate risk. -It just depends upon what your own personal risk tolerance is. But now you're making me talk about my day job on a brewing forum and that's just not ok. ; )


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Old 12-12-2012, 04:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by biertourist View Post
I just like safeties for my safeties. The contactor is definitely a safety feature against an SSR failing open and dry firing your element, an appropriately placed light is a visual indicator that such a thing is happening.
LOL you'll be able to see and smell that your element just smoked.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:38 PM   #17
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I found what I was looking for.

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If you tap a 120V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and neutral and have no element plugged in, it will light up due to leakage.

If you tap a 120V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and neutral and have the element plugged in, it will light up due to the path from the OTHER hot line, through the element, through the light, and then to neutral. Doesn't matter whether the SSR is or is not firing. It will light up all the time.

If you tap a 240V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and the other hot line and have no element plugged in, it will light up due to leakage.

If you tap a 240V lamp off the switched SSR hot line and the other hot line, and have the element plugged in, it will only light up when the element is actually firing (leakage current will almost all go through the element since it is MUCH lower resistance than the light).
You will need a 240 VAC light for the "Element On" indicator.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:22 PM   #18
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LOL you'll be able to see and smell that your element just smoked.
The light allows you to see at a distance whether there's power applied to an element or not-regardless of whether the element was "just smoked".

-I thought the ULWD elements can fire dry for quite a little while before destroying themselves, too but I have no experience with this yet. (*knock on wood*)


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Old 12-12-2012, 04:23 PM   #19
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I found what I was looking for.



You will need a 240 VAC light for the "Element On" indicator.
Thanks for that reminder! -I've been assuming that all the lights so far are 120 VAC -hopefully I would've stopped to think about it but I could definitely see my self making the assumption that it was 120 VAC and then frying it.


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