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Old 01-03-2013, 04:44 PM   #1
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Default Spa Panel Breaker won't Flip to "On"

*Sigh*

I've finished wiring my control panel and did an initial test using 2 extension cords plugged into different 120v circuits (yes, I know). Now I've wired up my Home Depot 50 amp GFCI spa breaker panel and... nothing...

I've wired it identically to PJ's diagram here:

But the breaker just won't flip over successfully to the "on" position...
I pressed the "test" button before doing anything else and now it just won't flip to the "on" position...

I can take a picture of how it's wired and post it here tonight to assure everyone but it really looks like it's wired perfectly. What are the odds of getting a bad GFCI breaker? -What are the odds of returning it after I've cut holes in the box and knocked out the knock outs?


This sucks, I'm SOO close to being able to power this thing up and now I'm stuck...



Adam

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Old 01-03-2013, 04:47 PM   #2
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I wan't to clarify that the breaker isn't quickly resetting or anything scary like that; it just won't "click" to the on position.
(When plugged in or unplugged.)

I'm using a 4 wire, 50amp electric range plug as my power input.

Adam

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Old 01-03-2013, 06:12 PM   #3
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Turn off the breaker feeding this panel in your main panel and see if the breaker remains latched. If not I'd say the gfci is mechanically deficient. If it does remain latched then the wiring is wrong.

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Old 01-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #4
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Breakers can be deceiving. A new breaker typically comes in a tripped (middle position). You need to flip the breaker all the way in the off position, first (it will click). Then, throw it on.

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Old 01-04-2013, 02:40 AM   #5
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Yep click it all the way off and then all the way on. Gfci breakers are strange like that.

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Old 01-04-2013, 02:42 AM   #6
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Not just gfi's. residential breakers trip to the middle position. With only a few exceptions, they all have to be switched off, then on.

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Old 01-04-2013, 03:53 AM   #7
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Hm, I don't recall the ones in my house being that way. I'll have to check that out!

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Old 01-04-2013, 09:09 PM   #8
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I REALLY had to click it way off; this WAS the problem, embarrassingly enough.


Now the full control panel powers up correctly EXCEPT for the power out to my elements and my indicator lights (240v in-line with the elements).... It only registers up to 120v with the multimeter and the kettle element's contactor puts out a pretty loud hum (less loud when the element is connected)...


Time to T-shoot with my schematic and multimeter tonight...


Adam

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Old 01-06-2013, 04:15 AM   #9
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Ok, guys I need some help here.

I've got 120v going to each of my elements but the side that's SUPPOSED to be coming through the SSR isn't being passed. I've got 120v hot going into the SSR (new FORTEX) but nothing coming out...

-I also don't see any voltage passing to the SSR coming from the PID controller -I'm expecting that there should be 12v or 24v showing up but I'm not seeing anything. Can someone help me troubleshoot this?

-The light isn't on on the SSR but I just don't know if the SSR is bad, something is programmed incorrectly with the PID controller, or the PID has something wrong with it --where do I go from here?

It's been almost 5 months since I started this build and I'm SOO close to being able to brew again and this is just driving me crazy!


Adam

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Old 01-06-2013, 04:53 AM   #10
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Whats your wiring diagram?

Also, what PID are you using?

If it's the Auber 2352, I may be able to help...

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