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Old 02-10-2012, 10:41 PM   #31
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Going to be using a keggle. Bought an extra 1" full coupling to make a dimple tool. I have some pretty big impact sockets to use as the backer.

You dimpled into the kettle correct?

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Old 02-10-2012, 11:46 PM   #32
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epcgordy, very nice work! The install looks nice and sturdy. How did you make the dimple? Did you just use a larger version of the classic DIY dimple tool?
Ajgeo, I made the tool described in the Soldering Stainless Steel thread. I used the same bolr/nut set-up, and just changed the tapered fitting and the larger receiver.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:48 PM   #33
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iijakii, I don't get to DFW too often, but if if do head that way, I'll look you up!

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Old 02-11-2012, 12:00 AM   #34
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SmokingDog,

Yeah, I dimpled from the outside in. Mainly just because I preferred to do the soldering on the outside, where I could see what what the solder was doing as I was going.

One cool thing I discovered in making the tool was a way to keep the tapered piece straight on the bolt. I pressed a 1/2 in. CPVC to 1/2 in. NPT adapter fitting that I had into the tapered fitting. I used JB Weld to fill the space around it from the large end, then topped it off with a 1/2 in. stainless washer. In the CPVC pipe end, I pressed home a short piece of 1/2 in. copper pipe. It fits my 1/2 in bolt like a glove, and stays in alignment no problem. Maybe you can adapt something like that to keep your coupling straight on the bolt. Without something like that, it wants to wobble all over the place, making it pretty easy to mess up the kettle.

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Old 02-11-2012, 05:52 PM   #35
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Thanks for the tip. Pretty self explanatory, but got a pic of it?

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Old 02-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #36
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epcgordy. What size hole did you make for the coupling? 1-1/4? I did the same thing regarding the dimpling tool, I got a 1"-1-1/4" SS weld reducer and a 2" Black steel coupler. But I have not made the hole in the kettle yet.

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Old 02-12-2012, 02:57 AM   #37
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epcgordy. What size hole did you make for the coupling? 1-1/4? I did the same thing regarding the dimpling tool, I got a 1"-1-1/4" SS weld reducer and a 2" Black steel coupler. But I have not made the hole in the kettle yet.
I used a Greenlee punch, 1 1/4 in hole. It went through the Bayou Classic like butter. On a keggle, 1 1/4 might be a tad on the small side. Seemed like the dimple was pretty deep, had to move a pretty large area of the kettle wall. I'd recommend testing on piece of scrap if you can something. I found an old stainless double boiler insert at the local thrift store for a couple of bucks. Now it looks like a sieve from all the tests I did!
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:08 AM   #38
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Thanks for the tip. Pretty self explanatory, but got a pic of it?
I get a shot or two posted in the next day or two.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:19 PM   #39
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Thanks for the tip. Pretty self explanatory, but got a pic of it?
Got a few pix last night. The first one shows the type of CPVC pipe to male pipe thread adapter that I pressed into the tapered stainless fitting. Then, I filled around it with JB Weld from the large end, and topped it off with a couple of stainless washers epoxied in. The next one shows the small end, with a short piece of 1/2 in. copper pipe pressed into the CPVC pipe end. It fit perfectly, I didn't even glue it. For the receiving end, I used a 2 in. ABS plastic pipe coupling, cut down in length. Topped that off with a very short piece of ABS pipe glued into a ABS pipe cap, with a hole drilled for the bolt.
cpvc-fitting.jpg   tapered-fittiing.jpg   tapered-fitting-small-end.jpg   receiver.jpg  
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:32 PM   #40
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Epcgordy,

Those solder connections look good. Quick question, based on some of the other posts in this thread - the straight threads of the heating element fit the tapered threads of the coupling without an issue?

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So, I took some pictures when I got home last night. The second picture shows how the OD of the O-ring is slightly smaller than the ID of the stainless washer. When compressed between the box and kettle, the washer prevents the O-ring from deforming.
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