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Old 09-28-2012, 03:24 PM   #21
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How does everyone feel about this; http://www.highgravitybrew.com/produ...l-158p3986.htm ?

If I have a single-tier, single pump, 3 vessel system then that should be everything I need, right? I know that $500 is a bit pricey for how barebones that panel is, but as long as I'm willing to disconnect and reconnect my elements and probes, then that could run it, yeah?
Nobody?
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:11 PM   #22
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Nobody?
Personally, I think it's a nice little box. Is it great? No, but that's my opinion. It has both PID and PWM control of a single element and on/off control for a pump. I don't agree with the statement regarding "futzing" of the buttons for power control of the element. In that regard if you buy a PID with manual control you eliminate the need for the PWM.

It will probably work for your system, as you say, if you move the element plug and the probe. Most likely it's be a LOT easier if you bought an extra probe.

It could also be used to control a RIMS tube - but I can't tell if there's an interlock between the RIMS switch and the pump. Probably not, which is something you want for a RIMs setup.

I've made ammo can controllers with RIMS tubes included for $400.
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:17 PM   #23
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Personally, I think it's a nice little box. Is it great? No, but that's my opinion. It has both PID and PWM control of a single element and on/off control for a pump. I don't agree with the statement regarding "futzing" of the buttons for power control of the element. In that regard if you buy a PID with manual control you eliminate the need for the PWM.

It will probably work for your system, as you say, if you move the element plug and the probe. Most likely it's be a LOT easier if you bought an extra probe.

It could also be used to control a RIMS tube - but I can't tell if there's an interlock between the RIMS switch and the pump. Probably not, which is something you want for a RIMs setup.

I've made ammo can controllers with RIMS tubes included for $400.

Thanks for your response! I'm doing HERMS, so the RIMS capability doesn't phase me to be honest.

Just for clarification purposes, how will an extra probe make it easier? I'll still have a thermowell with a digital thermometer in my MLT, I just won't have it reading back to a PID. With my temperature probe for the PID in the end of the HERMS coil, I should have fairly accurate and consistent control over my mash temps. Am I missing something?
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:24 PM   #24
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The High Garvity controller appears to have the Auber 2352 with manual mode along side the PWM so it looks like you could try both with it and choose your preference. A knob is nice and intuitive and quick, but the percentage read out is also nice on the PID in manual mode to give you a number to help dial in your boil off.

I'm not sure how they have it set up though. Does the Heat switch turn the whole system on or just the PWM? Are the PID and PWM on at the same time?

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Old 09-28-2012, 09:46 PM   #25
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Thanks for your response! I'm doing HERMS, so the RIMS capability doesn't phase me to be honest.

Just for clarification purposes, how will an extra probe make it easier? I'll still have a thermowell with a digital thermometer in my MLT, I just won't have it reading back to a PID. With my temperature probe for the PID in the end of the HERMS coil, I should have fairly accurate and consistent control over my mash temps. Am I missing something?
You said you would move the plugs and the probes. It's a whole lot easier to buy 2 probes and move the probe connection than to unscrew the probe and move it. The problem with this is that each probe could calibrate differently.

Otherwise, I think you've figured out how you would use it.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:08 PM   #26
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Just chiming in to let you know that it can be done. I built a Kal clone before the pre-built or part kits were available. I had ZERO electrical experience before building this panel and learned a ton by building it myself. Takes a while to source all the parts yourself, but it is cheaper than buying prebuilt plus you'll have the experience of building it which can help with any problems that might come up. It was fun too!

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Old 10-17-2012, 01:29 PM   #27
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I disagree - I have priced out my parts, and including shipping, I'm running about half the cost of his kit, with most of the same parts (all the major parts, PIDs, relays, enclosure, etc. are identical).
Can you post a list of vendors you're getting these from? It will help others here. Actually, it would help me as well.! We buy in large volumes from dozens of vendors and we can't get anywhere near 1/2 the price of the kit like you mentioned. (Note that our kit is currently $1420 - not $1700 as some mentioned).

Some of our suppliers have changed too for our kits/pre-assembled control panels. For example, we don't use Pioneer Breaker for much of anything anymore. The enclosures and switches all come from elsewhere as we find the quality better/more consistent.

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Old 10-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #28
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(Note that our kit is currently $1420 - not $1700 as some mentioned).

Kal
Ahh yes I'm glad you said that. I realized I had made that mistake and meant to correct it out of fairness to you, but it slipped my mind. $1420 is still a bit out of my price range, but quite a good deal when you consider how incredible the panel truly is.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:00 PM   #29
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Can you post a list of vendors you're getting these from? It will help others here. Actually, it would help me as well.! We buy in large volumes from dozens of vendors and we can't get anywhere near 1/2 the price of the kit like you mentioned. (Note that our kit is currently $1420 - not $1700 as some mentioned).

Some of our suppliers have changed too for our kits/pre-assembled control panels. For example, we don't use Pioneer Breaker for much of anything anymore. The enclosures and switches all come from elsewhere as we find the quality better/more consistent.

Kal
I'll put together a list and post it. When I wrote the above I had not purchased everything yet, but I am still coming in a lot cheaper than ordering the kit - especially because so much of it came with free shipping, and I had access to a cross-border shipping depot that enabled me to take advantage of that.

I ended up buying the same PIDs, but opted for the Auber timer and different SSRs and relays. Nearly everything else I bought, as far as I can tell, was the same as Kal's parts.

I ordered my enclosure from Pioneer Breaker, but that was it.

The rest came from a mix of US and Chinese ebay sellers and Amazon.com

I doubt I'm at half price after I add everything up, but still saved a bunch. That said, I like searching and price-comparing online. If you don't have the time or desire to do that, then by all means, order the kit. Like Kal, price for me was not necessarily the chief concern. Before I ordered a part that was different than what's in Kal's kit, I did my best to research it to make sure it was reliable and would work.

I still think the kit is good value, but it just wasn't the direction I wanted to go.

And with that said, let's see if the thing powers up when I turn the key in a few months time after building it!

Nearly everything is in my garage now - just waiting on the panel amp meter and the enclosure itself.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:17 AM   #30
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I'll put together a list and post it. When I wrote the above I had not purchased everything yet... I doubt I'm at half price after I add everything up, but still saved a bunch.
FYI, don't forget all the small parts. There's a considerable amount of small items that add up that people forget, including:

(Qty: 1) 8-32 x 1" stove bolt and nut
(Qty: 6) Size 4 x 1" wood/metal screw
(Qty: 10) 6-32 x 1/2" machine screw
(Qty: 6) 6-32 nut
(Qty: 13) 3/16 x 1/2" stove bolt and nut
(Qty: 4) 1/8 x 1/2" stove bolt
(Qty: 4) 1/8" Stainless steel cap nuts
(Qty: 6) 1/4-20 x 1" stove bolt
(Qty: 1) 305mm (12") handles (2 pack)
(Qty: 2) 127mm (5") handles (2 pack)
(Qty: 1) Tube of all purpose clear silicone sealant
(Qty: 1) JB Weld cold weld compound
(1 tube) Heat sink compound
(Qty: 2) 8 position terminal strip, 20 amp
(Qty: 1) In-line fuse holder for 5x25mm fuses, rated to at least 7A/125V
(Qty: 1) 7A/250V fast blow fuse, glass tube 5x25mm
(Qty: 16) 3/16 x 3/4" stove bolt and nut
(Qty: 4) 1/8 x 1/2" stove bolt and nut
(Qty: 4) Small flat rubber washer (1/2" diameter)
(8 feet) Black 10 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(4 feet) Red 10 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(11 feet) Green 10 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(35 feet) Black 14 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(6 feet) Red 14 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(21 feet) White 14 gauge type T90/THWN/THHN wire
(60 feet) 22-24 gauge telephone station or similar low voltage signal wire (rated to 300V)
(Qty: 25) 22-18 gauge #6 narrow spade terminal (red)
(Qty: 140) 16-14 gauge #6 narrow spade terminal (blue)
(Qty: 20) 12-10 gauge 3/8" stud ring terminal (yellow)
(2 feet) Spiral wire wrap
(Qty: 55) Self-adhesive tie mount
(Qty: 120) Nylon cable tie

Unless you've priced out all these things ahead of time, I'm not sure how you can possibly do any sort of price comparison.

Kal
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