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Old 04-29-2013, 03:10 PM   #1
skepace
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Default Small Control Panel Build

While I wanted to go all electric, I am going to have to make some changes.

I am looking at building a small panel to control my HLT heating element. I am going to build it to display the temperature of the HLT and MLT. My BK will be heated by propane gas but will eventually use the natural gas since the pipe runs right behind my brew table/work bench.

Here is what I have figured out so far to buy:

(1) Auber Small Control Box
(2) Auber PID 2352
(1) Auber Contractor (is the ebrew.com version the same?)
(1) Auber SSR
(1) Auber Heatsink
(2) Auber RTD Deluxe Sensor
(1) 2 way switch
(1) Blue 120V Pilot Light
(1) Yellow 240V Pilot Light
(1) 7A - Inline Fuse
(2) 8 position terminal strip, 20 Amp
NEMA L6-30 female and male receptacles


Looking for suggestions and help. Thanks to Kevin already for helping me get going.

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Old 04-29-2013, 03:36 PM   #2
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If you don't have a small mountain of parts you don't have enough yet

One thing to consider is building with the ability to easily upgrade to a full all electric in the future, such as put in a 3rd PID and use it right now as nothing more than a temp reader for the BK but still having the space to add another SSR and switches down the road, it is not much more cost right now and can save you from rebuilding the entire thing should for some reason you need to go all electric down the road.

You don't need an 8 position terminal strip, a smaller one will work just fine. I don't see anything to run your pumps...IMO, may as well put it altogether instead of having those controls elsewhere, it is both more ergonomic and safer to have all electrical components in one locations, especially if it is a sealed box.

You also need a bunch of wire of the appropriate gauge and connectors. That switch is likely not designed to turn on 220v 30 amp service so you need a DPST relay or another 30 amp SSR to do that (DPST for this application would be better IMO). If you want to take advantage of the alarm feature of the PIDs an illuminated buzzer and on/off switch for them would be necessary.

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Old 04-29-2013, 04:01 PM   #3
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Thanks!

I was thinking of possibly only using one PID but make space in the box for 2. Might have to see the difference in price of getting a larger control box.

Also, I would like to have my pumps connected but don't want the expense of rewiring them to use locking plugs. Can i use the standard cords that come with?

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Old 04-29-2013, 04:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensiff View Post
If you don't have a small mountain of parts you don't have enough yet ....

...If you want to take advantage of the alarm feature of the PIDs an illuminated buzzer and on/off switch for them would be necessary.
Yes I know from experience I failed to add an on and off switch for my alarm w and now need to add one!!! Opps... good luck
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:33 PM   #5
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I noticed that ebrew.com is cheaper than Auber on several items. Would they be the same quality? Anyone had any luck with their products?

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Old 04-29-2013, 04:42 PM   #6
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You can definately use standard plugs. I have the two plug wall outlet/cover installed in my panel. Just make sure that you remove the connector between the two plugs so that they operate independently. Also, if money is an issue, you can easily use 1 pid. Even down the road you can use it in auto mode to control the hex and in manual for the boil. Then you could use a cheaper controller to just read the temp of the mlt

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Old 04-29-2013, 04:53 PM   #7
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Thanks!

I was thinking of possibly only using one PID but make space in the box for 2. Might have to see the difference in price of getting a larger control box.

Also, I would like to have my pumps connected but don't want the expense of rewiring them to use locking plugs. Can i use the standard cords that come with?
I found my ubiquitous 16x16x8 box for around $90 with a little internet searching.

I understand the locking plugs are a little pricey up front but worth it for a nice clean install in the long run IMO. But, if you want to hold off on the expense for now, I would simply attach a jockey box to the bottom of the control panel with the thought to upgrade to locking plugs in the future. Doing that I would figure out where the plug cut outs would be and then attach the jockey box with small bolts through that area so in the future when you cut out the whole for the locking receptacle you wont have the old attachment point. Then wire the box up with a standard receptacle for the time being.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:57 PM   #8
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I found my ubiquitous 16x16x8 box for around $90 with a little internet searching.

I understand the locking plugs are a little pricey up front but worth it for a nice clean install in the long run IMO. But, if you want to hold off on the expense for now, I would simply attach a jockey box to the bottom of the control panel with the thought to upgrade to locking plugs in the future. Doing that I would figure out where the plug cut outs would be and then attach the jockey box with small bolts through that area so in the future when you cut out the whole for the locking receptacle you wont have the old attachment point. Then wire the box up with a standard receptacle for the time being.
What is a "jockey box"? Can't seem to find anything like that on the internet. Any schematics on how to install the standard receptacle and wire the plugs separate?
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:02 PM   #9
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I fit all my stuff into a 6x6x4ish enclosure. The Auber controller may have been too deep for the stuff I had in there. I was able to get the controller, ssr with external heatsink, pump switch(with second contact to break the pid to ssr signal to prevent dryfire), gfci outlet, twistloc element receptacle, and pump outlet all crammed in there. I have to add a ground lug connection out of the box to connect up to my element, but I brewed 15 gallons of hefe/saison this weekend with good performance.







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Old 04-29-2013, 05:10 PM   #10
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What is a "jockey box"? Can't seem to find anything like that on the internet. Any schematics on how to install the standard receptacle and wire the plugs separate?
Please don't take this as rude, but if you don't know how to wire a standard receptacle and don't know what a jockey box is, I very very very highly encourage you to do a ton of learning before endeavoring to wire a 220v 30 amp system as you are playing with levels of electricity that can easily kill.

A jockey box is a standard box used for bringing together electrical connections safely by protecting the wire connections. If you take the plate cover off any electrical outlet in your house you will see a box behind it, that is a jockey box. Wiring a standard plug is pretty easy, the black is hot, the white neutral, and the copper the ground. On the back of a receptacle it is labeled (sometimes hard to see) white on one side and black on the other, at a corner is a green screw that is for the ground. Simply attach the wires powering the receptacle as labeled and you will be able to plug into pumps into it...but, again do your homework, know what you are doing, watch a ton of youtube videos for visuals, get a voltmeter and a digital or analogue voltage detector so you know the power is off and that you have the correct amount of power when wiring. Electricity is invisible, never guess, never assume, please be safe...ok done with my soapbox.
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