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Old 03-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #21
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Love the Tri-clamps and those hinges are a great idea...I could use something like that for my MT

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Old 03-08-2013, 05:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanMar

Yes, it's the Brewers hardware one.

Perhaps, results seem mixed. Also considering adding a false bottom to BK to provide some extra filtration, time will tell though. When you say "clog like that" where were you thinking it would be placed?
I have the filter and run it inline from the pump. It clogs a lot of the time and impedes flow rate. Even before the pump it still clogs up. I now just whirl pool without it.

I like the way you have it set up, looks nice should be ok with a false bottom.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:00 PM   #23
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Love the Tri-clamps and those hinges are a great idea...I could use something like that for my MT
Thanks, I'm a little nervous of the idea of tipping them full. Although with the triclamps it also works well as it gives you a way to move the kegs around to attach/detach things.

Will have to wait and see how useful the hinges end up being.

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I have the filter and run it inline from the pump. It clogs a lot of the time and impedes flow rate. Even before the pump it still clogs up. I now just whirl pool without it.

I like the way you have it set up, looks nice should be ok with a false bottom.
Thanks for the info. I've heard similar things like this. It was abit of an impulse buy, due to the cost of shipping to Canada, I lumped it in with my valve order. I have a center drain so I didnt see any great way to whirlpool, also heard it didnt work so well with the electric heating elements. I may consider trying to add an off centre drain if it doesnt work out as planned, we shall see.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:32 AM   #24
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Finally got all my element enclosures finished.

I used a 2", 1/2"L TC ferrule TIG'd to a piece of 1/4" plate which is screwed to a single gang outdoor electrical box. I decided to go with the switchcraft connector for easy disconnection/removal.

The panel mount connectors used the .187" faston tabs, so I ended up soldering the wires to them, ring terminals were connected to the other end for connection to the element.

img_0917.jpg   img_0920.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:34 PM   #25
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Couple more pics, got the pump mounts tacked in place and everything test fit. Had some small standoffs welded to some TC clamps to provide extra support for the valves (its heavy!). Ended up soldering 4" spacers to allow clearance for the handles (modifying the handles seemed like too much work).

Have to tighten everything down, make sure its all aligned and then secure the TC clamps to the flat bar.

Also shown is my mock up control panel (very paranoid about getting the real one cut), had this cut from a scrap piece of aluminum (the other side is a mess). Have a few changes to make and then I'm getting the real one cut.

img_0922.jpg   img_0923.jpg   img_0924.jpg   img_0921.jpg  
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:01 PM   #26
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It looks like you have 4 SSR and 4 Contactors and 3 PID's with 4 elements.
But you can only run 2 elements at one time?

I am assuming the extra PID is just for temp?
How many temp probes are there per kettle? Are the PID's sharing temp probes also?

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Old 03-12-2013, 01:29 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by homebrewdude76 View Post
It looks like you have 4 SSR and 4 Contactors and 3 PID's with 4 elements.
But you can only run 2 elements at one time?

I am assuming the extra PID is just for temp?
How many temp probes are there per kettle? Are the PID's sharing temp probes also?
Yes, 4 elements, 4 contactors and 4 SSR's. It's 50A service though so I only have enough power to run any 2 at a time (I can select which 2).

Those aren't typical PID's, I'm using BrewTroller so there is only 1 controller for everything. Those are just displays on the front panel to display temps and/or volume.

There is a HLT probe, a BK probe, a probe on the inlet to the MT and a probe on the outlet of the CFC. I may add another probe which I can stick in the grain bed to monitor that temp, but I'm undecided.
The HLT and BK are the only ones with temp control, but the MT inlet temp probe can be used to control the HLT temp.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:04 PM   #28
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4 Elements. So you could say run both HLT elements to ramp up strike water times, then when boiling turn both BK elements on to bring to a boil. Turn off one element on the BK to maintain rolling boil, then put one element on HLT to start strike water for a second batch. Is that correct? If so this is awesome and I am jealous.

P.s. I would suggest possibly doing a test run with the filter set up before you do a full brew. Maybe boil 10 gals of water and 5-6 oz of hops. drain and see if you get any problems. It will save you a huge headache your first brew day when the filter housing keeps clogging and you need to stop draining, rinse it off and replace ever 10 mins. I really like this build so keep us posted.

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Old 03-12-2013, 10:12 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrPhilGood View Post
4 Elements. So you could say run both HLT elements to ramp up strike water times, then when boiling turn both BK elements on to bring to a boil. Turn off one element on the BK to maintain rolling boil, then put one element on HLT to start strike water for a second batch. Is that correct? If so this is awesome and I am jealous.
Yep, BK & HLT have 1x5500W and 1x4500W each, so 10kW to ramp up and when i get to a boil i'll run the 4500W at partial power. I envision moving to 20gal stout tanks at later date and I also got carried away with this.... haha

Yea, I'm paranoid about the filter. I now plan to make up a TC extension of the same length so if I get fed up with it I can swap it out for a pipe mid-brew. Appreciate the advice.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:29 PM   #30
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Here's a pic of my control panel model so far (still a work in progress).
Excellent build...i'm embarking on a very similar setup (should have the last of the neccesary parts tomorrow)

I'm also considering a dual element hlt/bk. How are you setting up "Auto" on the element select with the BT?
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