Kegconnection Complete Starter Kit and More Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Single PID controlling HLT and BK

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-06-2011, 05:12 AM   #1
bennieb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: san diego, california
Posts: 8
Default Single PID controlling HLT and BK

I am attempting to wire my kettle and HLT to one PID. Unfortunately I have only 3-wire 240v source so I am relying on a separate 120v source to power the PID. Any comments or suggestions on how to improve this simple design would be appreciated. The 12v dc spdt switch should allow me to switch between driving the kettle ssr and the hlt ssr. The PID is an auber 2352 and I plan to use manual control on the kettle and the hlt will have an rtd probe.

auber.jpg  
__________________
bennieb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 11:13 AM   #2
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

I'll mention some things for you to consider. The Auber Instrument PID SYL-2352 can be powered from 85~264VAC/50~60Hz. With that said, you don't need the 120V power addition.

You are planning on running the HLT or BOIL so I would replace the 2 - 30A DPST switches with a single DPDT-center off grainger.com Toggle Switch 2TPF8 - or you could get this switch instead grainger.com Toggle Switch 2TNZ7 and replace all 3 switches with it. It is 3 pole double throw center off.

My only real concern with your setup is that you do not mention GFCI protection. I believe this is something critical as without it you will be playing 'you bet your life'. There is an easy way to accomplish that protection. Just buy and install this GE Spa Panel. It is well worth the $50 spent.

Hope this helps.

__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 11:56 AM   #3
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

Some more thoughts for you:

Get the GE Spa Panel I mentioned and set it up to be plugged into your 240V outlet - like this:




Then set up your controller this way:
(Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



This way you only need one SSR and one heat sink for it. A bonus is that the whole thing will fit in the Project Box offered by Auber Instruments. Another bonus is that there is an Emergency Stop as well.

Hope this helps.

__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 01:32 PM   #4
Fritztheelephant
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Magnolia, Ohio
Posts: 236
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Does anyone have pictures of this setup in an Auber box?

__________________
Fritztheelephant is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 02:25 PM   #5
mccumath
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,047
Liked 198 Times on 191 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Just had a quick question, as I have been exploring electric brewing for the last few weeks...

What SSR/heat sink is everyone purchasing (i.e. part numbers, amps, volts, etc.). I understand the wiring diagrams (for the most part), and want to be safe in my electric ventures. Also, I would be interested in knowing which project box from Auberins is PJ referring to?

Everything else in any of the diagrams I have seen of PJ's make plenty of sense, I am just wondering about the part numbers, etc.

I have also been lurking on Tiber_Brew's build, and getting most of the part numbers from there, but I like the idea of a single PID controller at this time to at least get started with electric brewing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if this has been answered in another thread, please point me in the right direction. I hate to hi-jack the thread, but I hope the answer is beneficial to everyone else too.

__________________
Put it all in the primary, and let the BeerGods sort it out
mccumath is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 02:36 PM   #6
bennieb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: san diego, california
Posts: 8
Default

Thanks for the reply PJ (I was hoping this would see this!) I do have the gfci spa breaker that you mentioned (just forgot to say so in the op) and thanks for looking out for safety first. The wiring to the outlet is 4-wire but in my wisdom I installed a 3-wire outlet as I now only have the HLT element connected via a DPST 30a switch that I use to manually heat the HLT as needed. I agree that a DPDT switch to replace the two DPST 30a switches would be ideal but any of the DPDT switches that handle 30a (as both elements are 5500w) are $40+ dollars. Finally, I have seen a schematic that you have made similar to the one on this post and it really made me consider rewiring to 4-wire and following your drawing. If I dont change to 4-wire, how can I power the PID with a 3-wire 240v source? I thought I needed neutral plus one 120V leg and that ground cannot replace a neutral leg. Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

__________________
bennieb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 02:41 PM   #7
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccumath View Post
Just had a quick question, as I have been exploring electric brewing for the last few weeks...

What SSR/heat sink is everyone purchasing (i.e. part numbers, amps, volts, etc.)
...
This Excel sheet might help you -
Brewery_Parts.xls The 'URL' column will take you to the part listed.
Save to your computer (if you want) and then you can change it to fit your specific needs.

I hope it helps.

P-J
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 02:42 PM   #8
bennieb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: san diego, california
Posts: 8
Default

[QUOTE=mccumath;3460971]Just had a quick question, as I have been exploring electric brewing for the last few weeks...

What SSR/heat sink is everyone purchasing (i.e. part numbers, amps, volts, etc.). I understand the wiring diagrams (for the most part), and want to be safe in my electric ventures. Also, I would be interested in knowing which project box from Auberins is PJ referring to?

I purchased these but waiting for them to arrive:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110734772193...84.m1423.l2649

__________________
bennieb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 02:53 PM   #9
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bennieb View Post
Thanks for the reply PJ (I was hoping this would see this!) I do have the gfci spa breaker that you mentioned (just forgot to say so in the op) and thanks for looking out for safety first. The wiring to the outlet is 4-wire but in my wisdom I installed a 3-wire outlet as I now only have the HLT element connected via a DPST 30a switch that I use to manually heat the HLT as needed. I agree that a DPDT switch to replace the two DPST 30a switches would be ideal but any of the DPDT switches that handle 30a (as both elements are 5500w) are $40+ dollars. Finally, I have seen a schematic that you have made similar to the one on this post and it really made me consider rewiring to 4-wire and following your drawing. If I dont change to 4-wire, how can I power the PID with a 3-wire 240v source? I thought I needed neutral plus one 120V leg and that ground cannot replace a neutral leg. Please correct me if I am wrong on this.
Take a look at post #2. I linked to the switches and they are fairly inexpensive. 3 pole double throw is $16.33 at Grainger.

Regarding the wiring. Set up your Spa Panel as I show in the drawing post. Or change out the outlet to a 4 prong outlet.

P-J
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2011, 02:59 PM   #10
bennieb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: san diego, california
Posts: 8
Default

P-J, I checked out those switches and they are rated for 15A at 240v and 25A at 120V. Will that suffice? I was thinking that the full amperage draw from the 240v element will be passing through the switch. - thanks for the help by the way!

__________________
bennieb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I need a single PID, single element diagram GRHunter Electric Brewing 41 07-18-2014 05:23 PM
Wiring assistance - single PID/SSR single kettle setup Psych Electric Brewing 89 01-01-2014 08:56 PM
Another P-J Diagram: BIAB 5500W Single Vessel Single Pump, Illuminated Switches johnodon Electric Brewing 38 09-16-2012 03:56 AM
Controlling 2 240VAC elements Bsquared Electric Brewing 16 08-21-2011 09:27 AM
single pid setup canyonbrewer Electric Brewing 1 06-08-2011 03:05 PM