Ss Brewing Technologies Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Simple Kettle Controller Help?
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-15-2013, 12:46 AM   #1
affix
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mendham, NJ
Posts: 4
Default Simple Kettle Controller Help?

Hello all!!!! New to the forum. Lots of great stuff here. Sorry if this is a repeat.

Im looking to build a simple kettle controller. Just want to be able to bring it up to a boil or roll it back, etc. Id like an on/off switch, a 240 cord coming out of the enclosure, and and 240 outlet on the other side of the enclosure. Basically, I want this one from high gravity, but wanna do it myself for a lot less.


http://www.highgravitybrew.com/produ...r-306p3084.htm

Alien posted this 220V 10,000W SCR regulator from ebay in another thread.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-220v-...ash=item2a2753 6d1b

Im wondering if that SCR is as simple as it looks? Just throw it in a box and go?

What enclosure should I use and do I need anything else special in there, etc?

If anyone has ANY suggestions, diagrams, links to better parts, it would be MUCH appreciated.

I will have a real electrician look over the final product once built.

Thanks for any help!!!

__________________
affix is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-15-2013, 01:08 AM   #2
blutoot
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: dayton, oh
Posts: 3
Default

I got a diy potentiometer sp? bare bones kit from a site called stilldragon.com for around $50

__________________
blutoot is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-15-2013, 12:00 PM   #3
BadNewsBrewery
Basement Brewer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BadNewsBrewery's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Severn, MD
Posts: 1,103
Liked 109 Times on 90 Posts
Likes Given: 43

Default

That seems like a fairly simple device there, but if it will handle the load... great. Looks like the heat sink needs some solid air flow, so I would measure the distance between the mounting surface of the heatsink and the mounting surface of the control knob, and try to find a project box with matching dimensions. Cut a circle hole in one side for the knob, cut another hold on the opposite side to poke the heat sink out of, and you're in business.

Alternatively, find a 240V fan and mount it in a larger box and keep the heatsink internal to the box.

__________________
Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit
10gal Oktoberfest


Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Belgian Wit
Keg 3: American Pale Ale
Fermenting: Oktoberfest
On Deck: Pecan Ale
BadNewsBrewery is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-16-2013, 02:09 AM   #4
blutoot
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: dayton, oh
Posts: 3
Default

I have it controlling a 240volt 5500 watt element. I don't think you would need a 240 volt fan, 120 volt would work. You would have to wire it in parallel off of the unmetered leg of 120.

I'm not an electrician so please speak to one before doing any of this of course please.

__________________
blutoot is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-16-2013, 09:31 AM   #5
matc
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 211
Liked 16 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Would this thing still work with a 120v element ?

__________________
matc is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-16-2013, 11:49 AM   #6
hrafnkell
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Iceland
Posts: 49
Default

What about a 555 timer, ssr and resistors/caps? Could end up even cheaper than this thing, and quite simple to wire up.

Something like this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Yet-...-PWM-generato/

__________________
hrafnkell is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-16-2013, 10:19 PM   #7
blutoot
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: dayton, oh
Posts: 3
Default

I have tried to use several 120 volt elements before in the past and have had poor results.

__________________
blutoot is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #8
alien
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,234
Liked 65 Times on 58 Posts
Likes Given: 61

Default

The 10000W unit is oversized to govern a single element so I doubt a fan is necessary. Just mount the board so that the heatsink sticks out the back of the box with the fins oriented vertically and convection will do the rest.

The two hot wires from the 240V supply (e.g. dryer cord) go in the terminals on one side. The power supply to the element goes out the other side. Mount the board in a metal case: make sure that the solder traces on the back do not touch the bottom of the case. Bolt the ground wire to the case using a crimp eye and a lock washer.

If you want an on/off switch, get a DPST switch rated at or above the max current that the element will take and wire it up so that it breaks both hot wires before they go into the power terminals.

If you intend plugging this into a 30A dryer circuit the thermal breaker should provide overcurrent protection, but you should check what size the breaker is. It should be greater than the max current taken by the element, but not excessively greater.

__________________
Magic Smoke brewhouse and grill

Arduino PID controller - Automatic Smoker - Cooler MLT - Counterflow Chiller - SSR demo - PWM timer - Folding Brew Table
alien is offline
Brando_i Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-16-2013, 09:17 PM   #9
20Camaro11
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
Liked 2 Times on 1 Posts

Default

I built this controller in the last month. I would say mounting a circuit board was somewhat a task. I possess what I would describe as rudimentary skills when it comes to building things. The controller has worked fine for two boils. I built it with the heat sink enclosed. I definitely feel the heat in the box and such, but not too hot to touch. Be sure to get a large enough box/enclosure. Once all that 10-gauge wire is running in and around, it can get pretty tight. For as much brewing as I hope to due, I took a gamble and speculated it will be reliable enough, if it isn't, I will go a different route.

__________________
20Camaro11 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-19-2013, 11:10 PM   #10
affix
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Mendham, NJ
Posts: 4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Camaro11 View Post
I built this controller in the last month. I would say mounting a circuit board was somewhat a task. I possess what I would describe as rudimentary skills when it comes to building things. The controller has worked fine for two boils. I built it with the heat sink enclosed. I definitely feel the heat in the box and such, but not too hot to touch. Be sure to get a large enough box/enclosure. Once all that 10-gauge wire is running in and around, it can get pretty tight. For as much brewing as I hope to due, I took a gamble and speculated it will be reliable enough, if it isn't, I will go a different route.
Nice. Any pics? Waiting for the SCR in the mail.
__________________
affix is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Simple PWM Stirplate Controller rocketman768 DIY Projects 70 04-02-2014 05:23 PM
Seeking advice on a very simple PID controller to control bucket heater jd-santaclarita Electric Brewing 0 01-01-2013 10:27 PM
simple kettle control? killian Electric Brewing 1 11-10-2012 03:29 AM
Simple controller snaps10 Automated Brewing Forum 25 11-03-2012 04:21 PM
Refrigerator Temp Controller or simple bucket of water kyle6286 Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 1 08-23-2011 07:13 PM