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Old 04-23-2011, 03:21 PM   #71
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Squeeky and PJ -
Thanks for the great electrical schematic. I am looking at building this design and was wondering what the best way to incorporate the temp probes into the switch. The 4 pole DT has been mentioned, but doesn't seem to be the best choice. Is there a way to put in relays after the DPDT switch to have the correct thermocouple information displayed on the PID with the DPDT switch position? I could just add another switch for the temp probes, but I can see the day that I forget to switch it and it reads the wrong probe.

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Old 04-24-2011, 01:56 AM   #72
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Squeeky and PJ -
Thanks for the great electrical schematic. I am looking at building this design and was wondering what the best way to incorporate the temp probes into the switch. The 4 pole DT has been mentioned, but doesn't seem to be the best choice. Is there a way to put in relays after the DPDT switch to have the correct thermocouple information displayed on the PID with the DPDT switch position? I could just add another switch for the temp probes, but I can see the day that I forget to switch it and it reads the wrong probe.
I have some concerns with this as it could complicate your build a little bit. It certainly can be done and there are a few ways to accomplish the task. So with that said, lets look at the options:

With the setup as shown (Post #6 in this thread), there is no real need to have a temp probe in the boil kettle. With that said, the probe remains in the HLT to manage the strike water temp. If you are using a cooler for the MASH tun it's a done deal. On the other hand, if you are using a kettle for the mash, recirculating HLT temp controlled water is a must. A HERMS coil would be used for that. Both of these methods require the temp probe to be in the HLT.

Now we move to the next step. Wort is transferred to the BOIL kettle and brought to the boil. The PID requires a temp probe to be connected for it to function. No problem - it's still in the HLT and once the boil comes to a boil you use the PID in manual mode to set the percent of power to control the boil. Temperature? Keep in mind that a raging boil has a temperature of 212°F and a simmer boil also has a temperature of 212°F. Thus the use of manual mode as a temp probe does not enter into the process.

Ok... Maybe a reason for wanting a probe in the boil kettle. To monitor chilling the wort when using an immersion chiller. Ok. I can do that, But, I do not like the idea of using a 4 pole switch to accomplish this task along with switching the power to the elements. There is another way.

Buy this Cube Relays QM4N1-A120 and the Socket SQM14D.

It is a 4 pole double throw - low current relay. It should be energized whenever the element switch is set to the BOIL kettle. Another detail - because you are switching temp probes, I strongly recommend that you use RTD probes for this task - thus (3 wire probe) the 4 pole double throw relay. (Plus the probes are a lot easier to mount in the kettles)

When switch #1 is set to HLT or CENTER OFF the PID uses the temp probe in the HLT. When switch #1 is set to BOIL, the relay energizes and transfers to the RTD probe in the boil kettle. HOWEVER this is not going to work for you for chilling as the BOIL element is energized. One more switch is required to open one of the PID to SSR lines so that you can drop the power to the boil element.

So in summary: This becomes a complex issue. It can be done - no sweat - but I'd like you to think about it a little bit. Then if you really want to go this route, please let me know and I'll come up with a modified diagram for you.

What do you think? Or maybe you have another reason for requiring a second temp probe. I'd like to know. Help me help you.

P-J
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:18 AM   #73
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I just wanted to chime in on the thread. For anyone who has been following, control panel is finished just waiting to have vacation in order to work on the rest.

With the housing market sh!t, our condo has been on the market for over 8mos. Once it sells we will have a home which allows brewing again. I'm also looking for new career in beer, anyone with pointers on getting hired in beer sales/brewery rep shoot me a PM. So far over 10 resume submissions with a successful sales background and zero responses

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Old 04-24-2011, 03:29 AM   #74
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Chris,

I just want to wish you every possible success.
This very old man is very upset with the BS that is going on now in the world.
My heart simply aches.

Paul

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Old 04-24-2011, 03:49 AM   #75
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I just wanted to chime in on the thread. For anyone who has been following, control panel is finished just waiting to have vacation in order to work on the rest.

With the housing market sh!t, our condo has been on the market for over 8mos. Once it sells we will have a home which allows brewing again. I'm also looking for new career in beer, anyone with pointers on getting hired in beer sales/brewery rep shoot me a PM. So far over 10 resume submissions with a successful sales background and zero responses
So you chose not to reveal your location. That's too bad, there are opportunities now.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:38 AM   #76
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HaHa, I just realized it doesn't list my location. I currently live in the Dayton, OH area. Work roughly an hour away in Cincinnati as Retail Sales Manager with FranklinCovey. I've been with them for almost nine years, worked my way up from seasonal, to running one of the most profitable location in the company. However other locations haven't done so well and we have been closing location every quarter. Although I manage a retail location, we also assume the role of outside sales, business dev., as well as run public and private training seminars.

In the past nine years, I can honestly I've only gone to work a few days. I don't consider it work as I'm passionate about helping others achieve success. I want to have that same feeling in a new career that why I've been looking into Brewery Rep / Sales Position.

Since I just spent two paragraphs plugging my job search. I'll mention I am willing to relocate for the same passion but have applied for rep jobs with Stone and Darkhorse as well a sales jobs with many local distributors.

Hell feel free to buy my condo to: http://www.sibcycline.com/viewlistin...ayton-OH-45449

*Warning* Association not brewer friendly, no outside burners

I realize this post has nothing to do with the thread, but other then listening to TBN podcast on the my drive I haven't talked brewing for awhile.

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Old 04-24-2011, 02:25 PM   #77
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P-J - thanks, I just thought it would be nice to have the temp probe in the boil kettle so you can set an alarm prior to boil and monitor the temp on the PID. I guess if the temp probe's quick disconnects are universal I could just disconnect it at the probe and transfer it to the boil kettle once the mash/sparge is complete. I really like this design and think it is the more practical way to build a control panel.

Squeeky - feel your pain... lived in Dayton (Huber Heights) for 8 years and was lucky to sell my house 4 years ago. My friend in Akron rents his house out now because he couldn't sell it. Good luck selling your place. Come out to Colorado - lots of beer and better weather. Got any pics of that panel?

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Old 04-24-2011, 09:28 PM   #78
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Went to father-in-laws for Easter today, spent 20min eating and 2hr playing with this control panel.

I had yet to test the control panel completely as it's wired for twist lock input and father-in-law ran a GFCI outlet for his generator. Everything tested great, except for the fact I only purchased 1A fast blow fuses. I overlooked the fact that outlets used 10A not 1A A little google search and I found the march pump uses 1.4A, no wonder I had the issue. Going to pick up some 10A and extra 1As. Atleast I know the fuses work!

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Old 07-14-2011, 12:21 AM   #79
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Holy Silver Solder Batman

Guess who finally did more work on his brewery --- this guy.

Today I got to use my new $10 HF angle grinder, but through keg like butter. Also used a flapper disc to smooth edges, worked great. Also picked up supplies to polish with same grinder.

I also got to use my dimple keg tool, it was AMAZING. I highly recommend it made things so easy. I got three couples pulled through and soldered. Herms coil coiled, but purchased wrong 90degree adapters Going to have to finish later.

I have yet to drill for elements, HF step bit was sucking so I purchased unibit. Hopefully it will hold up for 3-4 1 1/8th holes. HF bit got about 6 holes before it died, even using cutting oil.

I tested control box, PID is reading 10degrees hotter the other thermos, I will look into how to adjust.

In two more visits I should have it finished, I hate not being able to sell this condo and move. Got to bring the dog back home until we get a showing.

Ill update with pics once complete.

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Old 08-04-2011, 02:20 AM   #80
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Still have a little work to do, make the dip tubes and clean and sanatize but I think the next trip I make. I'll do a gal test batch!
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