sethhobrin

Recipes 

Are you welding in half or full ferrules? This smaller one? http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Ferrule-Short.html

Or is this one better to weld in? http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Ferrule-Long.html

Or the larger one? I am going to copy you but would like to know which ferrule most people use(short or long?)

kevin509

Recipes 

If you haven't welded a ferrule yet you need to consider the type of element so it doesn't touch the ferrule on the kettle which can be common with the 1-1/2" ferrule and fold back elements. You need at least 1/2" projection from the kettle with the ferrule in order to get a clamp on it. The short ferrules are usually used to weld on to a tube but can be used on the side of a kettle. They are easier to silver solder on than weld because of how short they are.

sethhobrin

Recipes 

I ordered the long type ferrule from brewers hardware this morning and it sounds like the right decision(although its hard to tell from your response you make it sound like no fold back elements will fit a 1.5" ferrule).

I figured the fold back elements would fit fine since it fits in the 1.5" RIMS tube from brewers hardware.

However I have no real world experience are you saying the 1.5" long ferrule won't work with standard fold back elements? I realize the ripple elements won't work. Will the long 1.5" ferrule welded in the side of a brew kettle work with fold back elements? If not someone please let me know asap so i can try to adjust my order.

kevin509

Recipes 

You'll be fine with the longer ferrule and a straight element. No worries.

Yeah the ripples are a pain with 1-1/2" TC that's why I went with 2" TC on my boil kettle.

sethhobrin

Recipes 

Thanks man! I feel better now. Can't wait. Love this design. Now i just need to find a welder locally!

Anyone know if this element is shorter than it actually says? I'd like to buy this for the BK and HLT but for some reason amazon lists it as 17". kind of hard to believe and I haven't found another site that really lists the length properly. I have a 10 gallon blichmann boilermaker that is only 14" in diameter.

This is the only 4500w ULWD element i could find in a fold back design but I am concerned about the length and cannot find more details anywhere.


http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02923-Heater-Element-Foldback/dp/B0002YUDSI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1334592761&sr=8-3

runs4beer

Recipes 

This is the same one (50w per sq. inch = ULWD) and fits a 14" tank so it is less then 14". When I get home I can get you the exact installed length if the helps. It’s less expensive too.

http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/2923-4500W-240V-FLD-Elemen-p/565426.htm

__________________
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-DB
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Others look for fights
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-RH

sethhobrin

Recipes 

Thanks! you just confirmed this element is fine! i dont know why amazon says it is 17". Thanks for the cheaper source! I pulled the trigger. now I have to find a welder

shroomzofdoom

Recipes 

Wait...wuh? Can you tell me about what's going on here? If I am correct, is that a control knob for an old heater?

__________________
Mike D

My electric BCS-460 build (work in progress)

Coffin cooling lessons

AnOldUR

Recipes 

Naah. It's something called a Chill Chaser. A hand held immersion heater with a temperature control knob from a company that's no longer in business. Bought it cheap on eBay. It's now mounted in the side of my MLT. Took the cord off and put in a plug with J-B Weld. Easier to clean and store with out a cord dragging.

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It’s best to brew dark beer at night, because that way the darkness gets into the beer. —Bohuslav Hlavsa

sasky7777

Recipes 

My adapters aren't welded in yet, but I will be using the long adapters, IIRC Brewer's Hardware recommends them.