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Old 01-06-2011, 03:28 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by ihearthops View Post
Another thing to note...

To mitigate the risk you mention of potential leakage into the box, I drilled a ~1/4" hole in the bottom of the box to act as a drain port in the event of any leak. I figured in theory there could never be enough buildup of water (from a leak) that would ever allow the water level to rise to the point of the terminals -- plus I find myself checking to see if I have any leaks periodically throughout my brew day. I was super paranoid about that, so it keeps me at peace rather than have to worry about killing myself for a batch of beer.
This is a good idea....I'd drill 2 holes in the bottom so you can relieve pressure. If the box is completely sealed, it may not drain through just one hole because the vacuum will prevent the fluid from draining.
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Old 01-08-2011, 05:03 AM   #42
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I know this was asked already but I'd like to hear a few more answers. So whenever you guys want to move/lift and dump your keggle you have to drag those cords around? Or is the dangling cord no biggie.

I don't have 220v so I'd need to mount two 2000watt elements in mine. I don't know if I should do one box or two. I just had a heat stick fail and pop my gfci so I'm considering mounting them now.
My HLT and BK both unplug from my control panel, leaving a minor length of cord attached, but that isn't an issue at all since I clean in place. My CIP cycle consists merely of circulating hot water and PBW, then rinsing with cold water. The only vessel I remove from the stand is my MLT, which isn't plugged into anything. Even the MLT is easy to clean, with dumping the grain out, disassembling the false bottom, then giving it a good rinse.

This is just my experience, and how I do it, but I'm happy with it.

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Old 01-08-2011, 01:23 PM   #43
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this is my electrical connection---1 inch stainless lock nut on the inset of the keggle, holding element (+gasket).

The rubber housing is a 1 1/2 inch plumbing connection, clamped on with the hose clamps. The ground wire is just visable, clamped across the element nut.

The power cord goes through a drilled PVC cap that clamps down on it when the hose clamp is tight.


t
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:25 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
I know this was asked already but I'd like to hear a few more answers. So whenever you guys want to move/lift and dump your keggle you have to drag those cords around? Or is the dangling cord no biggie.
My HLT and BK disconnect at the control panel with a 6 foot cord each:



My HLT (and most HLT's) doesn't need cleaning. Only contains water. So it never gets moved.

My BK simply gets titled 90 degrees into the large sink right beside it for a scrub after brewing.





The pre-wash arm goes a great job at getting most of the stuff out and then a quick wipe with a sponge to clean the element is all that is needed.

Kal
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:37 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by bonsai4tim View Post


this is my electrical connection---1 inch stainless lock nut on the inset of the keggle, holding element (+gasket).

The rubber housing is a 1 1/2 inch plumbing connection, clamped on with the hose clamps. The ground wire is just visable, clamped across the element nut.

The power cord goes through a drilled PVC cap that clamps down on it when the hose clamp is tight.


t
While there are many great methods here, I wanted to compliment you on the simplicity and effectiveness of this one. I will be replicating it. Thanks
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:23 AM   #46
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I did the basically the same thing as most of you and placed the O-ring between the plastic box and the welded fitting.

For future reference, it takes a 1-1/4" hole to fit the electrical element.



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Old 01-09-2011, 03:05 AM   #47
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Default Potting an element

I may go this route, using some insulating sleeve inside, and drilling some drain holes, thanks Ihearthops. I have a cheapo element wrench socket from Loew's, so replacing the element would not be a problem. This would be welded to the keg around the one inch element bung, because you can never have enough triclamps!

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Old 02-23-2011, 11:52 AM   #48
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How to attach the elements to our Blichmann kettles in a safe and secure manner took some thinking. I spent many months on this. We wanted the entire kettle to be electrically grounded for safety reasons the same way any power tool or appliance chassis is grounded.

Grounding means that the entire metal chassis (in this case the entire kettle) is connected to your house's electrical system ground plane. This ensure that any stray current can find its way to ground instead of through something else (such as the brewer!) in the off chance that something goes wrong and one of the 'hot' wires becomes disconnected and touches the kettle. Without proper grounding the kettle would instead simply become energized and pose a great danger to the brewer. A proper electric brewing setup should always have everything properly grounded!

I also don't want any wires exposed as they could be easily damaged. Kettles are heavy and moving them around while you clean them means the brewer will inadvertently bump parts sticking out against other things. No matter how careful you are, it will happen. I wanted the wires to be protected as much as possible and completely covered up.

So I stole ideas from how Blichmann does weldless fittings and came up with this:







Complete instructions with parts list is here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

Kal
Kal,

What did you use to seal the 3/4" hole in the box opposite the one you installed your cord in?

Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:40 PM   #49
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What did you use to seal the 3/4" hole in the box opposite the one you installed your cord in?
2-gang boxes come with screw in plugs. My 2-gang boxes had 4 holes.
You can see one of the plugs below the cord grip in this picture:



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Old 02-23-2011, 12:46 PM   #50
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I copied Kal's design for my BK and HLT.
They were easy to build, and work like a champ!
Thanks a million Kal!!

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