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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Show us your element housings/pots. How did you do it?
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:05 AM   #31
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BK, do you have a pic of the inside?
Trying to decide how to make enough room for the recessed plug and the element.

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Old 12-31-2010, 12:16 PM   #32
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Here's mine -- similar to what others have done. Plastic gang box with the element cord grounded to the keg skirt. JB Weld holds the box on the keg -- element can be removed/replace very easily.





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Old 12-31-2010, 09:12 PM   #33
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That looks nice!
Is there a piece of sheet metal between the box and the element? I wonder why you needed that. Would it not be possible to attach the box directly to the element?
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:01 PM   #34
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I originally wanted to, but there isn't enough thread depth on the element -- only option was to cut the hole bigger on the gang box and mount it flush to the keg, stock element gasket on the outside.

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Old 12-31-2010, 11:02 PM   #35
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I originally wanted to, but there isn't enough thread depth on the element -- only option was to cut the hole bigger on the gang box and mount it flush to the keg, stock element gasket on the outside.
Sorry -- just realized I didn't completely answer your question.

No, there is no sheet metal in between the gang box/element/keg -- it's just the keg wall.
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:41 AM   #36
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No, there is no sheet metal in between the gang box/element/keg -- it's just the keg wall.
I see now, thanks. My vision was influenced by what I was planning to do. I was going to use a round PVC fitting that slips over only the plastic part of the element and is JB welded on top of the metal part of the element. After seeing yours, and a few other box installations, I am considering to use a box as well. I think the hole could be cut snug around the plastic part to avoid a leakage path into the box. Your method has the benefit of easy element replacement though. I will experiment with this a bit.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:00 PM   #37
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I see now, thanks. My vision was influenced by what I was planning to do. I was going to use a round PVC fitting that slips over only the plastic part of the element and is JB welded on top of the metal part of the element. After seeing yours, and a few other box installations, I am considering to use a box as well. I think the hole could be cut snug around the plastic part to avoid a leakage path into the box. Your method has the benefit of easy element replacement though. I will experiment with this a bit.
Another thing to note...

To mitigate the risk you mention of potential leakage into the box, I drilled a ~1/4" hole in the bottom of the box to act as a drain port in the event of any leak. I figured in theory there could never be enough buildup of water (from a leak) that would ever allow the water level to rise to the point of the terminals -- plus I find myself checking to see if I have any leaks periodically throughout my brew day. I was super paranoid about that, so it keeps me at peace rather than have to worry about killing myself for a batch of beer.
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Old 01-02-2011, 01:23 PM   #38
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so really all there is to it is getting a heating element and hooking up the wires?(of course making sur you have a heat resistant and watertight fitting) im assuming that you could do the same thing with a cooler?, eliminating the need for aluminum or ss pots

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Old 01-06-2011, 06:28 AM   #39
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I know this was asked already but I'd like to hear a few more answers. So whenever you guys want to move/lift and dump your keggle you have to drag those cords around? Or is the dangling cord no biggie.

I don't have 220v so I'd need to mount two 2000watt elements in mine. I don't know if I should do one box or two. I just had a heat stick fail and pop my gfci so I'm considering mounting them now.

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Old 01-06-2011, 07:14 AM   #40
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Several of the builds show that the cord is plugged into the box housing the element. Unplug and no cord to drag around.

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