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Old 12-28-2010, 06:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I mean I just used it instead of the seal. The 1" coupler I bought from bargain fittings isn't straight threaded. it's tapered so the element only screws in so far. but the teflon secures it fine by itself, just like every other fitting on my keggle. I have welded fittings btw.
Ok. I understand. I did not have a problem threading my element in far enough to seal with the supplied gasket. My coupling must not be tapered.

I am a big fan of teflon tape myself and also used it on every threaded fitting in my brewery. I recently gathered up all my plumbing supplies into a big toolbox and found I had about 10 rolls


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Old 12-28-2010, 06:48 PM   #22
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Ok. I understand. I did not have a problem threading my element in far enough to seal with the supplied gasket. My coupling must not be tapered.

I am a big fan of teflon tape myself and also used it on every threaded fitting in my brewery. I recently gathered up all my plumbing supplies into a big toolbox and found I had about 10 rolls
I guess I didn't really try with the gasket, just figured it easier to use tape. Teflon is one of those things, every time you're in the plumbing isle, you might as well grab a roll or 2


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Old 12-29-2010, 01:47 AM   #23
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Teflon will work, but recently I've gotten into using silicone adhesive sealant. Just put a fair amount on your threads, screw it in, wipe away the excess, and let it set. I think it's a bit more reliable than teflon tape (IME) and can be used for lots of other stuff.....

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Old 12-29-2010, 01:20 PM   #24
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Teflon tape is not meant to be a sealant. It's purpose is to lubricate the threads so that the thread form will seat well enough to make the proper seal. If you want a sealant, use silicone adhesive as ScubaSteve suggested or use pipe dope.

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Old 12-29-2010, 02:10 PM   #25
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Kal,

I understand. I too have 3 Blichmann's (10 gallon) and I am gearing up to do all electric. As you know I have already copied you chiller to the exact specifications from your site (and donated ) and study the rest of your build, and others, on a daily basis until I my brain hurts (which doesn't take much ).

The reason I ask is that I want to be able to do the same as the OP and be able to disconnect my cord at both ends. By doing so on a Blichmann, is it not possible to do it correctly?
No reason why you couldn't add a cord disconnect on the kettle end as well. The major issue I see is size. You most certainly could not use a NEMA L14-30P receptacle like this in the 2-gang box at the kettle end as it's way too big:

30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, NEMA L14-30P, 3P, 4W, Flanged Inlet Locking Receptacle,Industrial Grade


You'd have to use something small if you want to use the same 2-gang box box I use.

Then there's cost too as you'd need an extra receptacle and connector per cable (assuming 2 kettles with elements this is about $50 x 4).

One recommendation: If you do add a disconnect at the kettle for safety reasons make absolutely sure that the kettle side is a MALE connector (like the picture above) and the cable is FEMALE (like this one). This ensures that if for any reason you disconnect the two while power is on, you don't have live power on the cable that someone can touch. Just like the standard power 120V power outlets in your house.

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Old 12-29-2010, 02:42 PM   #26
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Kal.

Is that what the OP used in the very first picture? If so, you say it is too big?

Also, 10-4 on the male on the kettle as pictured and female on the cord end.

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Old 12-29-2010, 02:55 PM   #27
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I don't know what the OP used. Definitely not locking nor the picture I posted however.

The MALE connector the OP shows in his first post is not locking (that much is sure)and looks like a 15-20A socket to me (not 30A). Hard to tell. The OP also really knows his stuff so I'm sure he'll post here.

Kal

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Old 12-29-2010, 05:18 PM   #28
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Is that what the OP used in the very first picture? If so, you say it is too big?

Also, 10-4 on the male on the kettle as pictured and female on the cord end.
That looks like a 6-20. 250V 20A.
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:16 AM   #29
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Default liquid electrical tape.

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I thought about this, but I prefer to keep the element replaceable so I can change it out at a moment's notice. I was very careful in the construction, and took no shortcuts with Kal's method; it's rock solid. No leaks, ever. For an added layer of protection, I applied a generous amount of silicone around the element inside the box, just as Kal did. I'm confident that it won't leak.

In the unlikely event that it does, it will short and trip the gfci or breaker. And I never touch my system while it's "hot." For me, epoxy just isn't the answer; and even epoxy isn't fail-safe.
I potted my heat sticks solidly with epoxy, but I don't want to pot my RIMS TUBE connections with epoxy. I grounded the tube and covered the connections with liquid electrical tape as a precaution.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:15 AM   #30
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The OP is a 15-20A receptacle for 120VAC. It is for the Simple Brewery. I am glad people are posting their ideas here; this should become a very good resource for builders.



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