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Old 10-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #111
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Where have you located your temperature probe?

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Old 10-08-2012, 01:15 AM   #112
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Where have you located your temperature probe?
I am waiting on a tee and drilled through compression fitting and am going to put it in the input of my heater tube. I think this is the best place since I will measure my actual mash temp as opposed to putting it in the output of the tube which will always be higher since it's just been heated by the element. Any thoughts?
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:02 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by BackpackerAaron

I am waiting on a tee and drilled through compression fitting and am going to put it in the input of my heater tube. I think this is the best place since I will measure my actual mash temp as opposed to putting it in the output of the tube which will always be higher since it's just been heated by the element. Any thoughts?
Having it on the input of the tube will cause it to really overheat your mash. The controller won't stop heating until the entire mash is up to temp which means the liquid going through the tube could be boiling for all you know. Output on the tube is much safer for your mash and allows for much finer control.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:48 AM   #114
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What OMJ said.

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Old 10-08-2012, 01:53 PM   #115
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They are rated for this application; follow the links to see the specs. To be sure I double check w/ switchcraft and they confirmed they are good for exactly what I had in mind and I've never had a problem so far they don't even get warm...
They are like $4 for the outlets and $6 for the plugs.


Connectors STRAIGHT CORD PLUG
Panel mount power Outlet
This is why I like this website so much. A great melting pot of people from all walks of life and occupations with hundreds of ideas that make for a superb resource for electric brewers.

I have the cord on my rig coming out of the side of the electrical box. That could be replaced with the Switchcraft plug and a small splash shield added for protection.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:14 PM   #116
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Yeah, those Switchcraft sets are looking more and more like a no-brainer

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Old 10-08-2012, 10:44 PM   #117
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I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping.
PM me.
Sparky, I'm planning on cutting a hole in my Kettle to support the installation of a 1.5" TC ferrule this weekend, but your post has me concerned that I might not know what I'm doing... I was expecting that I'd need to cut a 1.5" hole in my kettle to support a 1.5" TC ferrule -are you saying that I should be cutting a 1 3/8" hole instead? I've got access to both a carbide hole saw and a GreenLee punch, for what that's worth.


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Adam
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:50 PM   #118
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Here's mine:
That is a true thing of beauty!

I wasn't planning on parting with $70+shipping to solve this problem but DANG that looks SOO good..

If it exposed a switch craft connector on the outside it would be PERFECT in my book and probably worth $70...



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Old 10-09-2012, 05:38 AM   #119
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So, with those Switchcraft connectors, is the "male" configured so that is safe being "hot" when exposed, unlike, say an L6-30P male plug?

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Old 10-09-2012, 09:42 AM   #120
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So, with those Switchcraft connectors, is the "male" configured so that is safe being "hot" when exposed, unlike, say an L6-30P male plug?
Yes, even though it is a male plug the contacts are on the inside of the barrle and are not exposed, male or female, cord end or panle mount this type of conection keeps all of the contaacts safely covered. It is not uncomen to do "hot patches" wirh these at an events such as rock shows when a light or an amp goes down. not as much as they once were but rocks are still seat of the pants and Switchcraft knows this.
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