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**jtkratzer** · 04-27-2012, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lafolielapper

OK...so here is my question. I am doing a really simple PWM control box...only controlling a single 5500W heater element and no RIMS/Pumps/Etc. I currently have two pre-wired wide-view LED's 12V that I would like to use for two purposes. First, I would like one LED to show power applied to the circuit...the second showing the pulse on and off of the SSR. Where would these LED's be placed within the circuit to show both of these statuses.

Lastly, I would like to have a switch to control whether the circuit is on or off. As of now I have a SPST Toggle Switch 10A that I intended to use to control the 12VDC to the PWM...but now I am wondering if it is also important to have a DPST 30A switch to control the input power from the dryer cord 240V to the receptacle that my heater element will be plugging into.

Please help...very very very confused!!

Are you using a contractor between your SSR and the receptacle?

**kevin509** · 04-27-2012, 10:51 PM

You can use a double pole relay to kill power to both legs of the element for safety sake and they make them with 120V AC or 12V DC coils so any simple switch can be used to kill the power to the element. Common sense works too...unplug everything before cleaning etc. Above all use a ground fault protected outlet or breaker, if something happens you'll live to brew another day. AC power in the same room with gallons of liquid, hoses, water lines etc requires safety.

sethhobrin · 04-28-2012, 12:36 AM

whats wrong with this? 30a 240v dp switch. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100356941/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=leviton%20double%20pole&storeId=10051&AI D=10368321&PID=3925582&cj=true&cm_mmc=CJ-_-3925582-_-10368321

**lschiavo** · 04-28-2012, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethhobrin

whats wrong with this? 30a 240v dp switch. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100356941/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=leviton%20double%20pole&storeId=10051&AI D=10368321&PID=3925582&cj=true&cm_mmc=CJ-_-3925582-_-10368321

Nothing at all...if used within it's ratings.

**Dgonza9** · 07-22-2012, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethhobrin

whats wrong with this? 30a 240v dp switch. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100356941/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=leviton%20double%20pole&storeId=10051&AI D=10368321&PID=3925582&cj=true&cm_mmc=CJ-_-3925582-_-10368321

Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but some people don't like the idea of physically touching a 30 amp 240V switch. Wet hands, etc., people would prefer to throw a low voltage switch and then have a relay in a control panel that throws the higher amp/voltage switch.

There's a logic to this, IMO, although it's more about comfort level than actual danger. Just my limited opinion.

runs4beer · 07-22-2012, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dgonza9

Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but some people don't like the idea of physically touching a 30 amp 240V switch. Wet hands, etc., people would prefer to throw a low voltage switch and then have a relay in a control panel that throws the higher amp/voltage switch.

There's a logic to this, IMO, although it's more about comfort level than actual danger. Just my limited opinion.

They make this to address that concern
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK-Toggle-Switch-Boot-2TPX6?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

Not sure that this is the right one but they do have one that fits the one being used.

vinper · 09-28-2012, 07:01 PM

I made mine out of copper ,

BackpackerAaron · 10-04-2012, 01:11 AM

Does anyone have an issue with the hot water heater threads being straight pipe thread and everything else being standard pipe thread? Any suggestions in this or does it seem to work OK using the standard 1" pipe thread? Thanks for the info.

runs4beer · 10-05-2012, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BackpackerAaron

Does anyone have an issue with the hot water heater threads being straight pipe thread and everything else being standard pipe thread? Any suggestions in this or does it seem to work OK using the standard 1" pipe thread? Thanks for the info.

I'm using tank spuds from brew hardware with 5.5k LWD and a 4.5k ULWD from Ron's hardware and the 4.5k threads in 3/4 of the way before it's tight and the 5.5k gets just over one turn before its tight. This concerned me but once made my enclosure (which I hope to post pic of today) it didn't matter: because of the thickness of the 2 orings and the face plate I only get one turn before the oring make a solid seal.

runs4beer · 10-05-2012, 01:02 PM

Here are my element inclosure, the thing the sets mine apart is the use of the Switchcraft plugs and outlets. I use to use then when I did audio and lighting for events, they are solid and small so I could install then on my "Kal boxes" which helps for disassemble.