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-   -   Show us your element housings/pots. How did you do it? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/show-us-your-element-housings-pots-how-did-you-do-212079/)

ScubaSteve 12-16-2010 03:06 PM

3 Attachment(s)

For my elements, I used 1" SLB conduit elbows, boring the hole a little larger with a step bit. Then I inserted the element, wired it up to include a strain relief at the bottom, and filled it with JB Weld. I let the epoxy cure overnight, not moving it until it hardened right where I wanted it. Then I screwed on the backplate and attached the ground wire to a lug I soldered on the kettle.

Just hope I don't burn out an element....it's more work than I'd want to do every few brews, but it's rock solid and as safe as I could make it.


ScubaSteve 12-16-2010 03:06 PM

3 Attachment(s)

For my elements, I used 1" SLB conduit elbows, boring the hole a little larger with a step bit. Then I inserted the element, wired it up to include a strain relief at the bottom, and filled it with JB Weld. I let the epoxy cure overnight, not moving it until it hardened right where I wanted it. Then I screwed on the backplate and attached the ground wire to a lug I soldered on the kettle.

Just hope I don't burn out an element....it's more work than I'd want to do every few brews, but it's rock solid and as safe as I could make it.


ScubaSteve 12-16-2010 03:06 PM

3 Attachment(s)

For my elements, I used 1" SLB conduit elbows, boring the hole a little larger with a step bit. Then I inserted the element, wired it up to include a strain relief at the bottom, and filled it with JB Weld. I let the epoxy cure overnight, not moving it until it hardened right where I wanted it. Then I screwed on the backplate and attached the ground wire to a lug I soldered on the kettle.

Just hope I don't burn out an element....it's more work than I'd want to do every few brews, but it's rock solid and as safe as I could make it.


Junkster 01-28-2012 04:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Mine is a SS lock nut welded onto a tri-clover cover plate. The element threads into that and the cover is simply a 1-1/4" PVC ell into which I made some cuts on the table saw. This makes slightly flexible "fingers" which grip the wrench flats of the element by way of the hose clamp. The cord end of the cover is a threaded bushing glued in and a 3/4" cable clamp screwed into that. The whole thing is easily removed for cleaning.


kevin509 04-08-2012 09:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Just finished my element covers/boxes. 2" TC X 1" NPS element plate from Hillbilly Stills soldered through 14ga stainless plate which in turn is bolted to water-tight box. Provides grounding point and covers element wiring inside the box. Cable strain relief on the side for my 10/3 cords and that's it.

Have to say, even it's going slow, the build is really fun.

Thanks to many from the forum for continuing inspiration.


kevin509 04-08-2012 09:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Just finished my element covers/boxes. 2" TC X 1" NPS element plate from Hillbilly Stills soldered through 14ga stainless plate which in turn is bolted to water-tight box. Provides grounding point and covers element wiring inside the box. Cable strain relief on the side for my 10/3 cords and that's it.

Have to say, even it's going slow, the build is really fun.

Thanks to many from the forum for continuing inspiration.


kevin509 04-08-2012 09:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Just finished my element covers/boxes. 2" TC X 1" NPS element plate from Hillbilly Stills soldered through 14ga stainless plate which in turn is bolted to water-tight box. Provides grounding point and covers element wiring inside the box. Cable strain relief on the side for my 10/3 cords and that's it.

Have to say, even it's going slow, the build is really fun.

Thanks to many from the forum for continuing inspiration.


kevin509 04-10-2012 08:46 PM

1 Attachment(s)

I had a 2" triclamp ferrule welded to my Blichmann boil kettle and the 2" triclamp fitting in my box/cover is threaded for 1" NPS so element screws right into it and the whole thing is clamped to kettle.


AnOldUR 04-14-2012 02:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)

jtkratzer 04-21-2012 01:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)

I'm also using the Brewer's Hardware housings with full ferrules. I want them welded as close as possible and will remove any excess from the inside of the keg. Even if there isn't any sticking through, it will be fine. Just need to weld them above the line where the false bottom sits to prevent creating a route for stuff to bypass it.

I had to use straight elements as the curvy ones wouldn't pass through the housing.



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