Selector switch???

**stellaontap** · 02-18-2012, 10:50 PM

I am in the process of building the control panel of my rims brewery. The system consists of a PID controller, one 1/25 hp magnetic drive pump, and a rims tube with a 120 V 1500 watt heater. I have Telemecanique switches with ZBE 101 contacts (0-600 V, 10 Amp rating).

Can I use these as direct on/off switches for my panel. One for main power, one for the pump and then one for the heating element or do I have to go with a control circuit with contactors for the main power and the heating element. Hope this makes sense and any help would be appreciated.

Eric

**stellaontap** · 02-19-2012, 11:08 PM

I have been thinking about the original question the whole day and have decided that I will make a control circuit so that I wont have thew whole load of the brewery on the selector switches.

I have decided to have a control circuit with an E-stop and a pushbutton control power switch that will bve wired in parallel with the normally open contacts of the contactor. This way the pushbutton will energize the coil and the auxilliary contacts of the contactor will keep it energized thus supplying the rest of the brewery with power. When the E-stop (stop) button is pushed the voltage will drop from the coil and the whole brewery will shut down. This is pictured in the first drawing.

The second drawing shows that the contactor is energized and will supply power to the pump, PID, heater and 24V power supply for the pilot lights on the switches. I have the control of the heater element on the low load side of the heating circuit so my switch should be adequate for it.

What do you think....please critique.

Eric

sdugre · 02-21-2012, 12:33 AM

Your schematic looks good, except I'd use a 20 amp circuit if available as you'll be pushing it pretty close to 15 amps with your element and pump running at the same time.

**stellaontap** · 02-21-2012, 12:55 AM

Thanks sdugre,

I thought I might be pushing it too much. I think i will buy a 5500 watt, 240 volt element and run it at 120 volts to lower the demand on the circuit. I can't run a 20 amp circuit into the garage at this time, so I hope that the lower wattage will maintian my mash temps ok.

Eric

sdugre · 02-21-2012, 01:09 AM

In that case I'd start with the 1500W @ 120V element and switch to the 5500W @ 240V element if you find yourself blowing fuses. Your pump probably only draws about an amp so you might be alright.