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Old 12-26-2012, 06:34 PM   #21
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No dip tube required. Not cutting into keg for fittings. Get just about ever last drop out of system. would be good for CIP as it will all drain out.

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Old 12-26-2012, 06:40 PM   #22
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I like my kettles, tri clad bottom, welded fittings, big opening without jagged hand cut edges, easy to clean out grain, not limited to 10 gallons.
Tri-clad bottoms have been shown to be of virtually no benefit in our application. For a slow cook/simmer, yes, but not for a hard boil If anything, they retain more heat for longer, making for longer chill times. Welded fittings are 100% personal choice. A weldless fitting is more flexible, since you can easily change what's in it. Once you have a fitting welded in, it'd done (unless you go through the PITA process of removing it). Plus, you need to make larger holes for welded fittings (typically). Not sure where you've seen "jagged hand cut edges" on keggles, but mine are nice and smooth/even with nothing to cut you on. I take my time and use a good right angle grinder (with a good disc) to make my cuts. Proper tools, and knowing how to use them, is important. Actually, critical for any DIY project. 1 point for a kettle (full opening) being easier to dump out grain from. BUT, that's not really an issue for most of us.

The cost savings you can have when going with keggles, over kettles, can be significant. I could probably outfit two, or three, keggles for what you'll pay for a single kettle. Both in stainless steel, kettle at least 1mm thick (to closely match the keggle).

As for being 'limited to 10 gallons'. Well, I can get ~12 gallons out of my boil keggle, depending on the recipe. Since the largest fermenting vessel I have holds up to 13.3 gallons, that's just fine. My normal batch size is 6.75-7.25 gallons into fermenting vessel, which is no issue in the keggle. With the amount I saved going this route, it easily offsets being 'limited' to working within my current fermenting vessel capacities. IF/when I have need to make larger batches, I'll be exploring kettles (can't get kegs in full barrel batch sizes ).

BTW, if the OP does go inverted, then he can cut the opening so that it's full diameter. That eliminates the difference in dumping out a keggle mash tun...
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #23
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Good post golddig. I could really see the inversion as a great fermenter. I actually love the idea.

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Old 12-26-2012, 07:33 PM   #24
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Good post golddig. I could really see the inversion as a great fermenter. I actually love the idea.
No need to invert. I use mine standing normally, and just use fittings (I've either designed or created) to extract with a CO2 push. No need to modify it to give room for a dump valve, and such, that way.

That reminds me, I need to push the ESB out of a fermenting keg and clean it up. Got a total of 5 tall 1/4 barrel kegs to use now (for my beer batches) and about 8 1/6 for my mead batches. Plus the 50L keg. Need to give my basement brewery setup it's maiden run and see how well it does.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:30 PM   #25
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I decided to invert, cut the bottoms and attached legs and casters to make cleaning a bit easier. I just roll them outside and rinse them with the hose. All three vessels are bottom drain, only have a pic of the boil on my phone.

image-2733342473.jpg

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Old 12-27-2012, 07:59 AM   #26
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I decided to go with Kettles vs Kegs for one main reason. I like the way they look better. Nothing against using kegs, as I have seen a lot of good brew rigs use them. I personally dont like the look of a keg as a pot and since im gonna spend several hours a week looking at these while I am brewing, i want to be happy with the setup im looking at while brewing. I know it seems a little picky of a consideration, but i have found that the stuff I make tends to either look good and im happy with it and i keep it the way it is, or if its something that works great but doesnt look as nice I tend to get the urge to change it again and thus spend more money.

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Old 12-27-2012, 11:44 AM   #27
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One of the things I like, and will do if I go the Sanke route, is using the keg upside down. This way you can drain from the bottom of the keg. No drilling required.

http://www.brewhardware.com/valves/137-tcsanke

Chris
I will admit up front that I am a "hater" and really don't like kegs as boiling vessels, perhaps up to now???

Ok, Now that I have that out of the way, the exception would be bottom drain, electric AND CIP FTW!

The bottom drain and CIP would eliminate the need to move the heavy kegs around...what I would really like is having the MT plumbed to a sewage pump and a dedicated line run out to the compost pile...now that would be livin!
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:52 AM   #28
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What is/was your reasoning for "hating" kegs? just getting prospectives from all sides...

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Old 12-29-2012, 11:13 AM   #29
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What is/was your reasoning for "hating" kegs? just getting prospectives from all sides...
OK...perhaps hate is a strong word when looking back, I used the slang term "hater", FWIW just sayin.

Kegs are purpose built for commercial serving, built for the abuse of being reused thousands of times, and therefore are heavy as hell and are poorly shaped for a brewing vessel IMO with the top and bottom skirts, and an undersized top hole that makes cleaning and rinsing difficult. Yearly I brew a half keg for a club event and keg it in a half sanke, afer handling the keg, I think to myself that I would have no desire to use one as a keggle. With the top fully removed, fitted with a bottom drain, and used CIP they probably work great. For a 3v application whereby the brewer needs to set up for a brew day and then clean / rinse keggles, not as good IMO. Also, lots of kegs are beat to hell and are not as attractive as kettles, again JMO. Of course one can polish a keggle, with added labor, materials and equipment.

While I don't use keggles, I have assisted and observed people who do. Kettles are purpose built for use as a kettle, while keggles are repurposed commercial serving vessels used as a kettle. Wouldn't we all agree that a quality hand tool is one that is purpose built, and also as light as possible to accomplish the task at hand. The two major factors in selecting quality tools are ease of use, and weight.

This looks like a great application for a keggle!
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I guess I just prefer kettles, found this used for about the price of a keg. Maybe it is a cost thing...If I had keggles available for cheap, and I was looking to set up a system w/ CIP and therefore wouldn't need to be moving and lifting keggles numerous times during a brew day, maybe I would use and love them as well.



These kettles look nice IMO, but are $100 shipped for 60 qt. OK flames on for me suggesting a cheap chinese kettle...lol...over a manly keggle. Oh and FWIW, I am considered a mans man by my peers, not a weakling, have the pics of two cord hand split firewood. JMO and cheers and happy brewing whatever you may choose to boil your wort...Happy and healthy new year to all
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-60-QT-Qu...item2ec4c8cf61

OK, 80 qt. w/ lid only $113 shipped...aint it purty...haha
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:23 PM   #30
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Jhappy new year to you as well. I am finding it very difficult, just looking at the Blichmann's, to not just go ahead and pull the trigger on them. Saves me the time from having to deal with kegs, even with the resources I have available. I have the cash, just feel like I could do the kegs and put the money into something else. I don't know what to do. They really are that much nicer.

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