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02-20-2013, 02:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by papajess Can you move your neutral on that outlet to another breaker? If you can u now have 240.
In principle, this can work, but you need to verify a couple things to do it safely when adding a breaker and powering the white as a second hot leg.

1) If there is more than one outlet on the circuit, and you rewire just one for 240 V, you run the risk of frying any 120 volt equipment plugged in elsewhere.

2) The wire gauge between the breakers and the receptacle will determine the maximum wattage of the element you can use.

If its 14 gauge like most home receptacles, it is limited to 15 amps of current. 240 V x 15 A = 3600 watts

If its 12 gauge like some home receptacles, it is limited to 20 amps of
current. 240 V x 20 A = 4800 watts.

3) Regardless of the voltage, 120, 240, or whatever, the wire size determines max. current. The circuit breaker has to be sized to the wire size, because the breaker protects the wire from an over-current condition.

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02-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #12
papajess
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by processhead In principle, this can work, but you need to verify a couple things to do it safely when adding a breaker and powering the white as a second hot leg. 1) If there is more than one outlet on the circuit, and you rewire just one for 240 V, you run the risk of frying any 120 volt equipment plugged in elsewhere. 2) The wire gauge between the breakers and the receptacle will determine the maximum wattage of the element you can use. If its 14 gauge like most home receptacles, it is limited to 15 amps of current. 240 V x 15 A = 3600 watts If its 12 gauge like some home receptacles, it is limited to 20 amps of current. 240 V x 20 A = 4800 watts. 3) Regardless of the voltage, 120, 240, or whatever, the wire size determines max. current. The circuit breaker has to be sized to the wire size, because the breaker protects the wire from an over-current condition.
Well if he didnt know that every thing on that circuit would be 240, than he probably shouldn't do his own electrical. But either way he is fine at getting what he needs.

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02-25-2013, 11:30 PM   #13
whoaru99
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Can't just connect it to any old breaker either. Has to be on the opposite leg and the two breaker handles must be tied for common trip. By rights the grounded wire has to be marked to indicate it's a hot wire, and the receptacle has to be changed to a 240V style.

I agree about not doing the wiring if you don't know about wiring but by the same token just throwing something out there that is potentially dangerous is not prudent either.

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02-26-2013, 02:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by whoaru99 Can't just connect it to any old breaker either. Has to be on the opposite leg and the two breaker handles must be tied for common trip. By rights the grounded wire has to be marked to indicate it's a hot wire, and the receptacle has to be changed to a 240V style. I agree about not doing the wiring if you don't know about wiring but by the same token just throwing something out there that is potentially dangerous is not prudent either.
Isnt most electrical stuff dangerous? Lmao
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02-26-2013, 02:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by papajess Can you move your neutral on that outlet to another breaker? If you can u now have 240.
Great way to start an electrical fire. It isn't that much more trouble to do it right and be safe about it. Besides, if you have room in your panel for two 120V breakers, you have room to swap those out with a 240v breaker. Breakers are relatively cheap, like 10 bucks or less.
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02-26-2013, 02:56 PM   #16
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I'm installing a 5500W element.

Is 1375W enough to maintain a 5 gallon boil? If so, that means I could have a simple switch to switch my element from 240V to 120V (using the neutral wire) when my beer reaches boil. That would be a very simple control setup.

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02-26-2013, 03:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by BBL_Brewer Great way to start an electrical fire. It isn't that much more trouble to do it right and be safe about it. Besides, if you have room in your panel for two 120V breakers, you have room to swap those out with a 240v breaker. Breakers are relatively cheap, like 10 bucks or less.
How is he going to start an electrical fire by switching the neutral to a hot?
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02-26-2013, 03:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by BetterSense I'm installing a 5500W element. Is 1375W enough to maintain a 5 gallon boil? If so, that means I could have a simple switch to switch my element from 240V to 120V (using the neutral wire) when my beer reaches boil. That would be a very simple control setup.
You can install a 3 way switch to connect one side of your element to neutral or the other hot leg. The common - off colored screw goes to the element and the other two screws go to neutral and the other hot leg.

The trick will be finding a 3 way switch that's rated for 240V & 23 amps. You won't find one at Lowes or Home Depot. You will burn out a standard house lighting 3 way switch.
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02-26-2013, 04:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by papajess How is he going to start an electrical fire by switching the neutral to a hot?
You don't want to run a 240v device on two 120v breakers. It's just a bad idea all the way around.
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02-26-2013, 04:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by BBL_Brewer You don't want to run a 240v device on two 120v breakers. It's just a bad idea all the way around.
If u have handle ties your just fine.

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