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Old 09-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #11
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unless the grant is vented to atmosphere and is breaking the vacuum produced by the pump, i dont see how its any different than having the pump suck directly from the mash tun. its true that having a small amount of air in the grant would buffer a small amount of pressure (or vacuum), but thats all it would do, is buffer. once the pressure change caught up (think: a second or two on the scales we are talking) the same pressure change would be felt in the mash pickup tube.
As far as I know, all grants are open to the atmosphere. I have just a short elbow on the MLT drain that drizzles the runoff down the inside wall of the grant so the drain never sees any vacuum nor any changes in pressure as the level in the grant goes up and down. A bottom inlet on the grant will change that but only slightly.

As you say, grants are optional but, at least in my opinion, help lower the chances for sucking down the grain bed. Many brewers are managing without a grant so if the emphasis is on simplicity then it can be eliminated. if the emphasis is on fiddling with the details to make beer better then it is not a bad choice.
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:38 PM   #12
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If I put the outlet towards the top I wouldn't be able to completely drain it when running the wort off into the brew kettle, that's why I was thinking having a fluid level sensor to turn the pump on and one to turn it off. The element would be turned off when running the wort into the brew kettle, or maybe I could use that to pre-heat and speed up the boil and use the lower sensor to turn the element off also?

Thanks for the input! it will be a little while before that system is up and running to try out but I will sure post the build on here. At the moment I am working through the design to get just what I want before I start building and change my mind.
I was thinking you'd reverse the flow during sparge. I have a similar setup on my BK. During chilling and whirlpooling I run wort in at the bottom drain where the whirlpool fitting aims the jet along the wall. The BK also has a top drain just under the surface of the wort which feeds the pump. This gets a strong whirlpool going, especially without the chiller. Also, the hottest wort is at the top so feeding this into the chiller maximizes its effectiveness. My homemade chiller is made from only 20' of 1/4" ID copper yet it chills an 11 gallon batch from boiling to pitchable temperature in 15 minutes or so.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:43 PM   #13
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I ended up using something similar to this on my electric build, budget and space made it a little different.

I ended up with a 5500W element mounted in an old pressure cooker pot run off of 120V with a bottom drain through a bulkhead fitting it seemed to work pretty well the bulkhead fitting raised the inlet up enough to keep any grain that got out of the mash tun from getting into the pump and it had enough volume that i didnt have to be really precise with my valves to keep it over the element and not overflowing.

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Old 01-04-2012, 05:19 PM   #14
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Do you get a higher efficiency hen using a Wort Grant?

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Old 01-04-2012, 05:57 PM   #15
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no but it reduces the risk of grain bed compaction

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Old 01-04-2012, 06:46 PM   #16
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interesting... ive only seen people build them out of containers with mason jar-like lids that sealed so i wondered exactly what the purpose was. i guess it would help you dial in the proper flow rate of the pump if you didnt already know it. i still wont recomend putting a heating element in a container with a non-static water level though, but that doesnt mean it cant be made to work.
I think you're referring to a hop back rather than a grant. The reason a hopback is sealed is because you're pumping wort through a bed of hops so you need the pressure.
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:51 PM   #17
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So I was doing some research and investigating for building my all electric system and came across a wort grant and it gave me an idea.

Has anyone ever tried to use a wort grant with a heating element in the grant to maintain mash temperatures? Might not have to be very big maybe 1500W.

Concerns I have:
- Would this interrupt the whirlpool effect?
- Not provide enough heating?

I am guessing you would need some kind of level sensor so the pump doesn’t overpower the gravity mash draining and fry the element/ kill the whirlpool.

I utilize a grant for maintaining the mash temps during the mash. I have 240Volt, 3500 Watt induction heater. It gravity feeds from the mash tun to the grant and I pump it back to the mash tun.

3500 Watt is good enough for small steps in temp and mash out. I also use it decoctions and boil-sanitizing hardware.
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:54 PM   #18
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They have a grant with a gas-fired heater at Lost Abbey for this purpose.

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Old 01-04-2012, 07:55 PM   #19
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This sounds like an open ended RIMS tube. Yes, it will work. They only issue to come up would be fluid level control. A couple of float switches would do the trick. I'm sure it could also be controlled by hand, but you would have to be careful, and keep an eye on it. Any screwups might cost you a heating element, and it would make me nervous to have that possibility with every brew. As much as I like this idea, I am planning to make a copper RIMS tube instead. Same concept, only its fully flooded, so no issues with the element burning up.

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Old 01-04-2012, 08:06 PM   #20
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I don't think that using an electric element in a double duty grant would be very optimal. You'd have to let the liquid sit in contact with the element for a while to heat it up so you couldn't recirculate very fast. You almost need to fill/heat/drain and repeat. Without a good recirculation going, you won't be able to maintain an even temperature throughout the grain bed without stirring. And if you open it up to stir, you'll lose more heat. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. If you plan to use an HLT (or already do) I would just go RIMS. Or insulate the hell out of your MLT and not even worry about a constant recirc.

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