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Old 06-18-2013, 01:41 AM   #11
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ok ,so my guess would be your terminal strips need to be jumped across the hot terminal side. these terminals are separate, you need to feed each one power.
by that I mean each term. needs its own power source.
here's what i'm talkin' about. the jumper wires on each terminal.

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Old 06-18-2013, 03:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverbeer
ok ,so my guess would be your terminal strips need to be jumped across the hot terminal side. these terminals are separate, you need to feed each one power.
by that I mean each term. needs its own power source.
here's what i'm talkin' about. the jumper wires on each terminal.
Yes. Nice catch.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverbeer
ok ,so my guess would be your terminal strips need to be jumped across the hot terminal side. these terminals are separate, you need to feed each one power.
by that I mean each term. needs its own power source.
here's what i'm talkin' about. the jumper wires on each terminal.
Ok, so if I include a jumper from each terminal in the bus bar, I might be good?
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:48 AM   #14
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Ok, so if I include a jumper from each terminal in the bus bar, I might be good?
By which I mean, "thank you"
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:51 AM   #15
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Okay, started wiring tonight. I put a heat sink below the SSR. This made me wonder how hot that heat sink will get. Any chance it could melt neighboring wires? It seems almost impossible to keep any wires from touch the heat sink.
Really only skipped through the posts, but you did use thermal paste between the heatsink and the SSR right?

Just making sure... ;-)
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:56 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by atreid

Really only skipped through the posts, but you did use thermal paste between the heatsink and the SSR right?

Just making sure... ;-)
Nope, I didn't. Thought that would only help heat transfer. Might that actually be the source of my problem?
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:16 AM   #17
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This pic might help explain the jumpers:
At the bottom right of the pic, you can see my neutral (white) feeding the terminal strip where I have the label "1a". Without jumpers, the only other wire that "1a" is connected to is "1b". By using a short length of wire to conenct "1a" to "2a", I have now have a connection to "2b". You need as many jumpers on the right side as you have wires on the left.

THe lack of thermal paste would not prevent the panel from powering up, but it will make your SSR run hotter and probably shorten it's lifetime.

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Old 06-18-2013, 11:48 AM   #18
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THe lack of thermal paste would not prevent the panel from powering up, but it will make your SSR run hotter and probably shorten it's lifetime.
Exactly... Definitely unrelated to your problem but you might eventually fry your SSRs without thermal paste... Any brand of paste will do. You can find some at any computer store. They use it for CPUs....
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noidios
This pic might help explain the jumpers:
At the bottom right of the pic, you can see my neutral (white) feeding the terminal strip where I have the label "1a". Without jumpers, the only other wire that "1a" is connected to is "1b". By using a short length of wire to conenct "1a" to "2a", I have now have a connection to "2b". You need as many jumpers on the right side as you have wires on the left.

THe lack of thermal paste would not prevent the panel from powering up, but it will make your SSR run hotter and probably shorten it's lifetime.
That worked, everyone. Thanks!
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:50 AM   #20
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Okay, so, as I indicated above, the common suggestion fixed my problem of no power. All switches light up, indicator lights, etc. E-Stop switch works like a charm. I confirmed that the pump receptacle gets power when I hit the pump switch. In short, passes with flying colors for all tests with one very important exception.

When I hit the heat switch, the switch illuminates, as does the indicator light. But, there is no power to the receptacle. I checked everything I could think of, including replacing the receptacle. So, I can come to only two alternative conclusions. One, that there is a wiring error. Two, and more likely, I have somehow overlooked how to use the PID to send power to the element's receptacle. After all, the PID is supposed to turn that sucker on and off, and so far there seems to be no power there.

Let's start with a very low level question. I'm assuming that I need to actually hit the heat switch in order for the element to fire. But, I'm also assuming, that hitting the switch is not enough, and that the PID itself must play a part. So that, even while the PID is turning the element on and off, the heat switch on my panel will always be "on." Is that right? What about the indicator light? I figured that should only illuminate when the PID sends power to the element. Yet, when I hit the heat button, that indicator light illuminates.

Okay, I'm starting to ramble. Sorry. Just a little dizzy from unwiring and rewiring trying to isolate the issue.

Any thoughts?

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