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Old 03-18-2013, 01:05 PM   #1
terodox
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Default RIMS in a box Wiring Diagram

Hello!

I'm a total novice when it comes to home electrical work, but I felt like starting to tackle a RIMS in a box. I put together a basic wiring diagram of what I'm thinking for the project. I wanted to get feedback on it to make sure my head is on right.

I didn't fill in the thermocouple on 15 and 16, but I know one is needed.

Thanks in advance!

wiring-diagram.png  
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:31 PM   #2
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You need one additional switch on incomong power for safety and because it's 120V you only need a single pole switch to break the hot side.

I can see from your element resistance that you will be using a 120V 1650 Watt element. Look at the power drawn by the pump. The one I use is labeled 1.4 but I measured the current drawn and it's just under 1 Amp. If yours is the same then you can plug into a 15 Amp circuit, of not then you will need to plug into a 20 Amp circuit.

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Old 03-18-2013, 01:52 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by thargrav View Post
You need one additional switch on incomong power for safety and because it's 120V you only need a single pole switch to break the hot side.
I don't think another switch is really needed. He's got individual switches on the element and pump to shut them down. A "main power" switch might be nice, but not really required.

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I can see from your element resistance that you will be using a 120V 1650 Watt element.
That's not what I am getting.

120V with a 13.75 Ohm element would be pulling 8.72 Amps.

8.72A from 120V would be about 1000 watts.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:53 PM   #4
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Hey Guys,

Thanks for the feedback. The switch directly above the wall plug was intended to be my overall system switch. Is that in the wrong place?

I do intend to keep the overall draw from this system under 15 amps.

If my math is correct then I should be all set with a 1500w element drawing ~ 9 amps and the pump drawing 2.

One last question is with the single pole switches, they need to be rated for the max amperage being drawn from the heating element and pump respectively correct?

So if I have I'm using a switch rated to 10 amps is that still safe to use for the heating element?

The overall system switch should be rated for 15 amps since the whole systems draw will be going through it.

Is that right?

Thanks again for the feedback!

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Old 03-18-2013, 03:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by terodox View Post
The switch directly above the wall plug was intended to be my overall system switch. Is that in the wrong place?
Hell, I didn't even see that one.

That will do it. Turn that off and nothing else will work.

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If my math is correct then I should be all set with a 1500w element drawing ~ 9 amps and the pump drawing 2.
A 1500w element will draw 12.5A if you are running on 120V.

Math is :
1500 watts / 120 volts = 12.5 amps

The pump will be under 2 amps, so you will fit into a 15A total power budget.

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One last question is with the single pole switches, they need to be rated for the max amperage being drawn from the heating element and pump respectively correct?

So if I have I'm using a switch rated to 10 amps is that still safe to use for the heating element?

The overall system switch should be rated for 15 amps since the whole systems draw will be going through it.

Is that right?

Thanks again for the feedback!
The switches should be able to handle the max current that will flow through them.

Your main switch needs to be able handle 15A, that much is correct. The element switch, however, needs to be able to handle 12.5A since that is what a 1500 watt element will pull.

Might as well put a 15A switch on the element as well.

The pump switch can be smaller, but you should put a fuse on the line if you are going to make the switch smaller.

For example, I have a 2A fuse protecting my pump. I could use a 2A rated switch if I wanted to.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:16 PM   #6
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Excellent! Great information. I appreciate all the feedback. Parts are now ordered and the build will begin soon!

Thanks for all the quick feedback!

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:44 PM   #7
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might also consider a fuse for the PID power. not necessary but cheap insurance

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:46 PM   #8
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might also consider a fuse for the PID power. not necessary but cheap insurance
agreed.

I have a small 0.33A fuse on the hot line to my PID, too.
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