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Old 09-07-2013, 05:55 PM   #51
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Yup - manual mode (as used in a boil kettle) doesn't get in the way as it's all about the duty cycle and that's it.

Kal

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Old 09-08-2013, 03:34 AM   #52
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Ok, so..it has been along long week here in the "sandbox"....

Kal, and others....

So I have 1 element that needs to be controlled, in the HLT, but it is needed for 2 different operations.
1. Heat strike water to initail temp
2. control HLT to maintain mash temp.

1. Could be taken care of with the PID in Manual mode, then switched to PID mode
2. to control the mash

this is correct right?

I also have one oc those cheep REX-100 PID that would need to be modifies to drive an ssr, or I could use it as a pretty thermometer, and I dial therms on each of the kettels as well.

I am glad that I ahve waited to build the brains until I redeploy.....

Tim

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Old 09-08-2013, 04:06 AM   #53
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You don't need to use manual mode at all.

Here's how I do it:

Use a temp probe at the output of the HLT.
Set your HLT temp using the PID in auto mode.
Mash in and maintain the same temp.

No switching need. No special dual modes. Simple.

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Old 09-08-2013, 05:28 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
You don't need to use manual mode at all.

Here's how I do it:

Use a temp probe at the output of the HLT.
Set your HLT temp using the PID in auto mode.
Mash in and maintain the same temp.

No switching need. No special dual modes. Simple.

Kal
You Make it sound so simple....lol...thx

Tim
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:52 AM   #55
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So to address the issue above.

I think I will just set my Set point at the temp I want to mash at and leave the probe at the INPUT to the Mash Tun from the HEX. My thinking , as stated before, is that that will cover some of the heat lose as it moves through the tubing, and that the mash should reach a uniform temp pretty quickly.

I have a dial thermo built into the HLT, so I will just use that to watch the strike temp. With the probe in the located at the INPUT to the MLT, and no water running to it, it should never reach the set point temp. When the strike water hits the strike temp on the dial thermo, i will start the pump and recirq.

Please let me know if there is a flaw in that plan.

As for my Control box, I have decided to use the Auber PID as the work horse for the system, and the cheap REX as just a temp readout at the OUTPUT of the MLT jsut to make sure that temps from top to bottom of the mash are not out of line.

Along with the single element it needs to run, it will drive two 110 outlets for pumps, and one 220 outlet to plug my boil kettle controller into. I want to build in a safty so that I can not have the element and the 220 outlet hot at the same time.

I have a few weeks left her ein Afghanistan, then I can start ordering the next round of parts.

Tim.

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Old 12-02-2013, 02:44 AM   #56
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Just ordered the 30a 2 PID DIY kit from Ryan at Ebrew.

Had all the 2 way switches replaced with push buttons….

Slow, but still moving forward

Tim

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Old 12-09-2013, 09:42 PM   #57
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Panel kit should be here today….

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Old 01-18-2014, 02:56 AM   #58
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The Brewstand has been built. Compact 2 tier.

Now have to figure out the process flow with one pump. Right now as I look at it, the HLT and Mash Tun are on the upper tier with the boil kettle on the lower.
I only have one pump and need to work out how I am going to sparge.

Still need a few more bits and bobs, a few Tee's, some female cam locks, oh and the elements....lol

Will post up some pics tomorrow.

Tim

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Old 01-18-2014, 05:41 PM   #59
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Brewstand about 80% done.




Control panal mock up.

Tim
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:11 PM   #60
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Picked up some solder, 5 ft of 10awg wire in red, white, green, and black, 10 ft 10/3 cable and 25ft of 10/4 cable.
also, there was a sale on 60 pound Vittles Vaults, $28 a piece, got 3 to use a fermentors.

Wiring starts soon....

Tim

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