Electric Brewing Supply 30A BCS Giveaway!


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Old 05-15-2012, 02:07 PM   #21
P-J
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Ok. I redrew the diagram for use with a 30A 240V feed.

I'm not aware of the "buzzer" that you speak of - Please explain.

The switches are from Auber Instruments: Selector Switch, 3-Position Maintained 2 NO
You will need to order additional N/O modules for all of them: NO/NC Switch Block (except switch #7)

And these are the Indicator lights: LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V
You need to choose the color and the voltage when you order. The diagram shows the lights wired for 120V.

As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Hope this helps.

P-J

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Old 05-15-2012, 08:05 PM   #22
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Hey pj, quick question as I am trying to figure this deal out too, but why the need of breakers in the control panel if your using 50 amp service? Does that change if you use a isolated spa panel too, or if you use an external panel do you still need breakers in your control panel. Thanks !

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Old 05-15-2012, 10:44 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by amurphyz View Post
Hey pj, quick question as I am trying to figure this deal out too, but why the need of breakers in the control panel if your using 50 amp service? Does that change if you use a isolated spa panel too, or if you use an external panel do you still need breakers in your control panel. Thanks !
First: You must provide GFCI protection for your brewery controller and you. This is a "bet your life" issue. It can be done by installing a GFCI breaker in your mains panel (usually a fairly expensive component) or you can buy a Spa Panel from HomeDepot for about $50.00.

To run a 50A-240V feed to your brewery, you will need a much heavier wire feed and 50A rated outlets. (Figure the cost) Additionally, within your controller, you must provide circuit protection for those components that run on less than the 50A. Fuses are A-Ok for 120V items - however - I would not use them on any 240V circuits. The reason being - If a fuse blows there will still be significant voltage and current available on the device. This is due to the fact that the 2nd fuse on the circuit has not blown and voltage/power is still being delivered. The risk is way too high to fool with. A circuit breaker will cut both legs of the 240V line. The 120V 15A breakers are added for convenience to eliminate the need for several additional circuit fuses.

All of this is within the control panel so that you only need to run a single power feed to it.

I sure hope this explains it and helps you. It is, after all, all about your safety.

Please feel free to ask more questions.

P-J
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:52 PM   #24
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Please feel free to ask more questions.

P-J

By the time im done you will wish you had never said that one...lol; Where do you recomend buying the terminal bars and inline fuses? Does radio shack carry them. Also what gauge wires do i need to be running internally?
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:13 PM   #25
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By the time im done you will wish you had never said that one...lol; Where do you recomend buying the terminal bars and inline fuses? Does radio shack carry them. Also what gauge wires do i need to be running internally?
Terminal bars: mcmaster.com
In line fuses: Radio Shack (plus fuse holders)
Wire size: Ampacity Charts

NO Problem - ever.!

P-J
Glad to help.
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:18 AM   #26
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Ok pj, point well taken on the safety first, and it does make sense for the on line protection on both legs. See the reason I ask, I have a line on a deal for a 50 amp spa panel for 10 bucks, I have no need for 50 amp, and my ebuild is almost complete as far as parts gathering goes, so as far deep as I am in this, going back to the drawing bored will just cost me more money in the long run, think I'll just go with the 30 amp gfci breakers and be done with it, it's just hard to pass up a deal like that!! Your awesome man, sometime in the future well have to get together so you can show what I messed up on, ha ha, I live up in troutman, obviously not far from you, thanks again man!

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Old 05-16-2012, 12:56 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by amurphyz View Post
Ok pj, point well taken on the safety first, and it does make sense for the on line protection on both legs. See the reason I ask, I have a line on a deal for a 50 amp spa panel for 10 bucks, I have no need for 50 amp, and my ebuild is almost complete as far as parts gathering goes, so as far deep as I am in this, going back to the drawing bored will just cost me more money in the long run, think I'll just go with the 30 amp gfci breakers and be done with it, it's just hard to pass up a deal like that!! Your awesome man, sometime in the future well have to get together so you can show what I messed up on, ha ha, I live up in troutman, obviously not far from you, thanks again man!
Wait... Wait...

If you have a 30A-240V 3 wire feed: Wire your Spa Panel this way:



Or if you have a 30A-240V 4 wire feed: Wire it this way:



Hope this helps BUT we really need to talk before you toss money into the bushes.

Troutman?? You need to PM me your number.!!! AND a best time to call you.

P-J
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:15 AM   #28
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Ahh, so my in logical thinking was right!! I can run the 50 amp from a 30 amp feed, especially for the $ I'll be saving, awesome, yeah, up here in trout ville, I work in kannapolis, I'll pm you my #, by the way, I'm pretty much following Kals build sheet, I just took the amp and volt meters out and put in float switches in the hlt and bk, I know with ld elements I should be good, but still don't like the " dry fire" on them, and figured a couple of bucks here and there could save a 25$ element and possibly a brew day. Thanks again man, your awesome!

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Old 05-16-2012, 02:20 AM   #29
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should all of these terminal bars be rated at 30 amps?

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Old 05-16-2012, 02:31 AM   #30
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This is the type of buzzer i was talking about. I was wondering if the bcs had an output to trigger this in case im in the other room and lose track of time.

Also, why do you need additional no blcoks if the selector switches already have two no positions? Im not sure i understand that.

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