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Old 04-16-2012, 12:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cioffi View Post
So what if I got two washers that are 2" OD and 1 1/4" ID, putting one on the outside wall of the key and one on the inside wall of the keg? I could then use the outlet box on the outside to provide resistance and then use the nut on the inside to tighten things up. Shouldn't that be water tight? I could always use silicone o-rings to help seal against the washers. Any thoughts?
While it could work...there is nothing but friction holding the element in place in the oversized hole and it could shift and leak...I wouldn't try it....also I would guess that there isn't ample room on the element for 2 washers an o-ring and a nut, the keg wall and a junction box, and it wouldn't seal the threads anyway.

Excellent advice above regarding welding or soldering IMO.

Just for kicks I searched out a stainless tank bulkhead fitting that could work ....be sitting down when you see the price
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BAN...KH8?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BAN...KJ1?Pid=search
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:15 AM   #12
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I say go with the spuds from bobby and solder or weld (or have them welded) on, they'll look good and will be more solid then a stack of washers and oring.

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Old 04-16-2012, 02:40 AM   #13
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Okay, good advice. I'm leaning toward the spud for Bobby. But, Bobby, you mention that the element has to be straight - I take it so that it can screwed and unscrewed from the spud without hitting the bottom of the keg. Unfortunately, I have a spiral one (Camco 5500W - the one Kal uses), so I suspect I won't be able to srew and unscrew the thing if the spud is welded to the keg.

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Old 04-16-2012, 09:28 AM   #14
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Yes, if the hole you puntched is really low it may not work to use spuds but do check, the curved bottom of the keg might work to your advantige. Hold the element in place and spin.

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Old 04-16-2012, 01:14 PM   #15
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I know I'm dragging this out, but what you guys think of this:

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Stee.../dp/B003GSL3JA

It looks like it will take the element and function as a weldless bulkhead. Thoughts?

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Old 04-16-2012, 01:39 PM   #16
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I believe those elements actually have 1" threads (which needs a 1 1/4" hole to pass through and screw into your 1" lock nut) Look for one that reduces to 1"

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Old 04-16-2012, 01:43 PM   #17
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Yep, 1" threads on Element.

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Old 04-16-2012, 02:20 PM   #18
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Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the "bulkhead" part (2.5") through the wall of the kettle.

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Old 04-16-2012, 03:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cioffi
Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work:

Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the "bulkhead" part (2.5") through the wall of the kettle.
2.5" is going to be larger than your original hole.

If I were in the same situation, I would buy a 1x1.5 bushing, a stainless washer (to go over 1.5" threads), matching silcone oring and a 1.5 stainless lock nut.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:08 PM   #20
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Since you used a 1 1/4" conduit punch you need a 1 1/4" - 1" reducer

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