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Old 03-16-2012, 12:54 PM   #1
sethhobrin
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Default Question about PID and RIMS Tube.

Just picked up parts for a RIMS tube.

My PID is the Auberins 1 x Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-2362) with 40 watt SSR and heat sink + control box.

Picking up a 2000 Watt ELement 17A

Can someone tell me if this is a simple on/off type of thing or will this PID actually apply varying amounts of wattages to the heating element?

Still learning and reading before I attempt to hook it all up.

I am currently recirculating my mash with a pump over a flame and can't wait to go electric for mashing to free up my burner for boiling.

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Old 03-16-2012, 12:57 PM   #2
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The Loop controller does not vary the wattage but instead opens/closes a solid state relay for xx seconds of a cycle time. It's basically on/off.

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Old 03-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #3
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Correct, and the SYL-2362 also contains a manual mode where you can effectively set the percentage of power you want to use. For use with a BK you would want it to fire 100% of the time until boiling starts, then you could probably crank it down to 60-65% in manual mode in order to maintain the boil.

You didn't mention it, but it sounds like you're going to use 220V. Is that right? Is the element LWD or ULWD?

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Old 03-16-2012, 02:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
Correct, and the SYL-2362 also contains a manual mode where you can effectively set the percentage of power you want to use. For use with a BK you would want it to fire 100% of the time until boiling starts, then you could probably crank it down to 60-65% in manual mode in order to maintain the boil.

You didn't mention it, but it sounds like you're going to use 220V. Is that right? Is the element LWD or ULWD?
I plan to ONLY mash with this setup. My HLT and Boil kettle will still be propane burner manual. My only goal with this automated setup is to hold a stable mash temp using RIMS tube as well as raise from 150 to 170 to mash out. I might try protein rests, etc in the future as well.

I am using 120V and don't have the ability to use 220V.

I am still researching heating elements and I am looking for suggestions.

I got the 40A SSR and 40A heatsink so I know I am not on the edge with 120V.

Here is the RIMS tube I have: http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts/122-rims
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:52 PM   #5
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One option is to use this:

Whirlpool 5500-Watt Incoloy Element

Lowes Item #: 26367 | Model #: 6910474

It's an already low watt density but running it at 120 will reduce the total wattage down to about 1375. Just make sure it's 12" long or less.

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Old 03-16-2012, 04:24 PM   #6
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Do you think it would be better to run a 5500Watt Element on 120V cutting its wattage down to 1/4?

OR Should i get a 2000 Watt 17A 120V element and run it at full power?

My friend thought I would have problems raising the strike water to 150s or higher with a 5500Watt element on 120V in any reasonable amount of time but he doesn't know for sure.

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Old 03-16-2012, 04:29 PM   #7
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I would go with a 2K at 120V. Unless you think you might move up to 240V eventually...

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Old 03-16-2012, 05:57 PM   #8
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Foiund this one. What do you guys think? is 9.5 inches too short for my 12" rims tube or just the right size?

http://bostonheatingsupply.com/sp10868gl.aspx

I also found this 1700watt one. Its weird that the 1700 watt element costs more. Does anyone know why?

http://bostonheatingsupply.com/sp10868kl.aspx


Also whats the difference between resistored and non resistored? Which one would you guys go for if I am only using it in a RIMS tube for mashing with a magnetic pump.

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Old 03-16-2012, 06:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sethhobrin View Post
Do you think it would be better to run a 5500Watt Element on 120V cutting its wattage down to 1/4?

OR Should i get a 2000 Watt 17A 120V element and run it at full power?

My friend thought I would have problems raising the strike water to 150s or higher with a 5500Watt element on 120V in any reasonable amount of time but he doesn't know for sure.
I wasn't aware that you planned to heat your strike water through the RIMS. Most people use the HLT for that, get close and then use the RIMS for the last few degrees (and tun preheat).

The Patriot supply one looks really good though given the LWD and good length (the only downside is the price). No, it shouldn't be an issue that it's 2" shorter than the RIMS tube max length. I do recommend using a 4" probe RTD to get it further past the outflow port.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
I wasn't aware that you planned to heat your strike water through the RIMS. Most people use the HLT for that, get close and then use the RIMS for the last few degrees (and tun preheat).

The Patriot supply one looks really good though given the LWD and good length (the only downside is the price). No, it shouldn't be an issue that it's 2" shorter than the RIMS tube max length. I do recommend using a 4" probe RTD to get it further past the outflow port.
I heat up sparge water in a seperate HLT over propane for sparging and then use gravity to sparge.

I plan to use this electric to heat my MLT from tap temps usingn a magnetic pump and rims tube for recirculation.

For the boil back to propane.

So your saying it might not be a good idea to heat up the MLT water all the way up the mash temps? I should heat it on propane in my HLT and then dump in to my MLT? Is it becuase a 2000watt element just won't cut it for raising temps from 70 - 150 and then to 170 for mash out? (sounds like 2000 watt would be the way to go instead of 1700 watts given I want to heat my MLT strike water up with this from 70-150ish and then up to 170 for mash out?)


EDIT: I think I answered my own question. the 1700 watt element is 12.5" long(too long for my rims tube). Looks like I need to go with the 2000 watt 9.5" model.
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