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Old 11-30-2010, 05:33 PM   #1
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Default Question about fuses for element controller

Ordering everything to control a heating element. I've got the pid, ssr + heatsink, water tight k thermocoupler, outlets and a watertight box. May get indicator lights too.
I'm wondering about what type of fuse holders people prefer, what the amp rating of the fuse should be and where do I need them to be to properly protect everthing?

It's a 110 volt system, 2000 watt element, 25amp ssr
here's the pid http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=3

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Old 11-30-2010, 06:29 PM   #2
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Hey there... if you are only going to be pushing 110V, You could plug directly into an outlet that has absolutely nothing chained to it, and it should be GFCI protected as well as have a breaker in the main panel at the correct fuse rating for it.

Sooo P=IR

2000W= (AMPS)(110V)

18.18Amps drawn at 110 v

You need a 20amp GFCI Fuse for the outlet and nothing else should be plugged into it

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Old 11-30-2010, 06:34 PM   #3
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Been running heat element without controller with 20 amp gfci. No need for a fuse besides that? Fuse between PID and 12volt source?

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Old 11-30-2010, 08:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtiebrewery View Post
Sooo P=IR
Not to be a bit-picker, but it's V=IR and P=IV - but the math is correct.



I would suggest a circuit breaker on the heating element power supply and fuse to protect the PID if you wanted.

That PID is AC powered, so to protect it you'd fuse between the 110V and the PID. It's rated at <5 watts, so you'd need a ~50mA fuse. I'd get a fast blow.

A fuse on the 12V line would protect the SSR output of the PID in the event the SSR failed to a short somehow. It's rated for 30mA out, so I'd get a 30mA fast blow.
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Old 11-30-2010, 08:37 PM   #5
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Forgot the "What kind" question.

It's up to you. I'd base that decision on two things -

1. What kind of fuse holder can you find
2. Are the fuses easy to find for replacement

I'd go with either 3AG (also know as AGC) or with blade type like in most cars now days. Either of those will be very easy to get at the parts house/wal-mart. It would be easier to find the 3AG in the amp ratings that you are going to need. Those are the glass tubes used in old cars.

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Old 11-30-2010, 08:42 PM   #6
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^^^ sorry internally I was thinking "Power" lol

I don't know if I can explain this correctly without juggling with my words but here's a shot at it.

You need to fuse the line that is going to the outlet with a 20amp fuse...

i have an attachement that P-J sent to me that would be extremely helpful if you wanted me to send it to you.

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Old 11-30-2010, 11:38 PM   #7
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The fuse/breaker size is determined by the wire size you use.
The wire size you use is decided by the load it will bare.

this is to protect the wire from getting too hot and causing a fire.
Considering this is coming from a 20A 110V circuit the breaker in the panel or gfci is already protecting a service cable and any thing branching off of it up to 12awg. Say you tap off the 12awg wire with a piece of 14awg wire you need to put a 15A fuse between the two. iirc, in the first post of the primer there is a list of proper fuse/breaker sizes for the wire size.

Edit: yeah, its under Circuit Ratings and Circuit Protection. Also a section called Suggested fuse sizes.

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Old 12-01-2010, 02:13 AM   #8
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The fuse/breaker size is determined by the wire size you use.
The wire size you use is decided by the load it will bare.
Typically, yes. But there is nothing wrong with sizing a fuse to protect a device so long as the wire is sufficient size (big enough) to handle the rated current of the device/fuse.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:50 AM   #9
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I like using supplementary breakers instead of fusing. They never need replaced. There are several sizes of breakers for $8 at Automationdirect.com. I'd use a 5 amp or less for your PID. The heating element will be fine if its being fed from a 20a GFI.

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Old 12-01-2010, 03:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Typically, yes. But there is nothing wrong with sizing a fuse to protect a device so long as the wire is sufficient size (big enough) to handle the rated current of the device/fuse.
agreed, at the end of the post I mentioned it addresses that. The important thing is to protect the wire, didnt want to add more complexity to the answer in this thread with device protection.
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