Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Question about control panels
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-17-2011, 02:10 AM   #1
gclay
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Orillia, Ontario
Posts: 262
Liked 2 Times on 1 Posts

Default Question about control panels

In the control panel I want to build, do I run 2 heating elements off one SSR or do I run 2 SSR's off one PID with one element off each?

I want to run 2 1500w elements off the mash/sparge and 2 for the boil. I also want to be able to just run the mash/sparge or the boil. I have 20 amp service in all my kitchen plugs.

Gerald

__________________
Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy -- Benjamin Franklin

You bring 1 purple crayon to class and they stick you on the short bus!! - Theresa Stanton
gclay is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 03:44 AM   #2
Inodoro_Pereyra
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 868
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

I can say with absolute certainty that I don't understand your question...

__________________

A pessimist is a well informed optimist.

Inodoro_Pereyra is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 03:58 AM   #3
bruin_ale
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 1,434
Liked 16 Times on 16 Posts

Default

I'm a little confused also.. are you using heat sticks? Or are you talking about 4 actual elements?

bruin_ale is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 04:00 AM   #4
Wberry
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Posts: 68
Default

You could electrically and mechanically interlock your single SSR to independently power your elements. Unfortunately (2) 1500 W elements will pull 25 amps before you have even added your PID, lights, contactors, etc. Perhaps you can post some more information about what you want to accomplish and with what specific gear.

__________________

Drinking: American Amber, Kolsch-Style, American Blonde
Bottled: Falconers Flight IPA, Falconers Flight IPA w/Raspberries, AG BIAB Kolsch-Style
Primary: AG Kolsch-Style #2
On Deck: Bee Cave Haus Pale on Peaches

Wberry is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 05:26 AM   #5
onthekeg
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,788
Liked 75 Times on 60 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

In all real world life, I would make two 120v heatsticks and run them on separate lines from the circuit box. They will both need to be on nearly 100% for a boil kettle or an HLT. I wouldn't even have an SSR for that. Unplug one of them as needed.

__________________
onthekeg is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 06:45 AM   #6
milldoggy
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pottstown, Pa
Posts: 2,038
Liked 62 Times on 51 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

You need to go 240 volt 30amp

__________________
My E-Herms

My hop stopper
milldoggy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 02:52 PM   #7
gclay
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Orillia, Ontario
Posts: 262
Liked 2 Times on 1 Posts

Default

ok, so I want to run 2 water heating elements for my hlt/sparge and 2 for my boil. Instead of having four power cords running from the panel I just wanted 2 for now. I want to be able to switch from hlt to boil with the flip of a switch. I will also want to control my pump, for my chiller, it'll be a closed loop, pump in bucket of ice water through copper and back to bucket. For now it'll be gravity fed but eventually it'll be single level.

Circuit A on (hlt) flip switch Circuit B is on (boil) I want to be able to know my temps at a glance.

I'm going to be making an electric brewery, not as advanced as The Electric Brewery, I want to get the panel ready with plastic buckets so when it's time all I have to do is cut holes in the stainless kettles and away we go.

I'm not very good at explaining myself.

Gerald

__________________
gclay is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 07:49 PM   #8
Inodoro_Pereyra
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 868
Liked 11 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Ok, now I think I get it.
I'm assuming that your 20A outlets are 120V. As Wberry said, 2x1500W elements will draw 25A, so your outlets are not enough. You'd need 2x40A outlets (or 4x20A), to be able to run that load with an adequate safety margin.

Now, to your original questions:

Theoretically, you can do it either way. Generally speaking, all measuring and control devices are designed to be able to drive 5 standard loads from any output, which means you shouldn't have any problems running 2 SSR's off a PID. That said, if you choose to go this route, MAKE SURE FIRST THAT'S THE CASE with your PID and SSR's, so you don't have any nasty surprises later.
Personally, I would use 1 SSR for every 2 elements. Running 1 SSR per element has no real advantages, other than allowing you to use cheaper, 20A SSR's (instead of 1, 40A unit), and eventually allowing you to use independent power circuits for each element (notice that I said circuits, not outlets. I wouldn't run the 4 elements off of 4 20A outlets if they shared the same circuit). If you don't plan on doing that, you're just adding potential failure points to your setup.

Finally, I agree with Milldoggy in that 240V would be a much better option for you. I would go for a 40A circuit though, as 30A is a little too tight for comfort. That way you have the option of running the elements in series, running each pair off of a 120V branch, or running each pair off of the 240V, but using the neutral as a separator (a little more expensive, as you will need twice the breakers/fuses, but, at least IMO, the best option, as it keeps the loads balanced among the 2 phases).

Hope it helps...

__________________

A pessimist is a well informed optimist.

Inodoro_Pereyra is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 09:25 PM   #9
gclay
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Orillia, Ontario
Posts: 262
Liked 2 Times on 1 Posts

Default

The only 240v is the stove so that's a no-go. I guess going from 20 amp to 40 amp is not just a simple matter of switching breakers.

I'll have to talk to the electricians building the houses here, to make sure the wiring can handle it. The house is one year old.

__________________
gclay is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2011, 10:03 PM   #10
milldoggy
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pottstown, Pa
Posts: 2,038
Liked 62 Times on 51 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Do you have a dryer? Where is your breaker box? 20 amp is probably 12g wire, you need at least 10 for 30 amp. You will also want 3 wires, plus a ground. Normal outlets are 2 wires and a ground.

__________________
My E-Herms

My hop stopper
milldoggy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My new Control Box... Dgonza9 Electric Brewing 19 11-09-2012 04:00 PM
Kal's TheElectricBrewery Panels FOR SALE vballdrummer Electric Brewing 44 04-07-2011 08:14 PM
BCS user control panel question bruin_ale Electric Brewing 35 03-15-2011 07:44 PM
Quick control panel wiring question ExHempKnight Electric Brewing 3 02-03-2011 04:03 AM
Prebuilt Control Panels? weremichael Electric Brewing 22 01-09-2011 11:14 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS