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Old 11-07-2012, 07:42 PM   #321
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Just in case someone didn't want to build one I think that this would be useful

http://dx.com/p/1-ch-96w-manual-led-...163667?item=25

You have to add a SSR anyways sooo... seems like it'd work. 12v input though.

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:45 PM   #322
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That LED dimmer will operate at too high of a frequency to use with an SSR.

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:46 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvtschultz View Post
That LED dimmer will operate at too high of a frequency to use with an SSR.
Really?? Even on low? hmm... wonder if you could take it apart like the bakatronics and adjust it.

btw that was a freakin' fast reply dude
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:53 PM   #324
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The frequency does not change, just the pulse-width or duty cycle. I have taken them apart and the circuitry is very small in there. I don't think that you'll be able to do the component swamp like the Bakatronics unit.

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Old 11-07-2012, 09:10 PM   #325
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I just hooked up my pwm and wish I had done so sooner. Just need a heat sink for the ssr. It gets pretty warm.

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Old 11-09-2012, 08:13 PM   #326
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These guys over here are building basically the same thing i think with just a pot and ssr , doesnt seem to be much more then that or am i missing something? i need a simple knob control for my BK and this looks cheap and easy.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewt...hp?f=2&t=28364

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Old 11-09-2012, 08:16 PM   #327
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http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewt...hp?f=8&t=26221
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:28 AM   #328
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If we're controlling 5500W elements, and I believe it's better to oversize things a little rather than sizing them at capacity, would this be a good fit for these elements? http://www.ebay.com/itm/6500W-thyris...item257272e15e

Not inexpensive, but would it eliminate the need for the SSR, and the thought of fewer parts, so the potential of less going wrong? Appears to be built appropriately beefy enough.

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Old 01-10-2013, 11:37 PM   #329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alha View Post
If we're controlling 5500W elements, and I believe it's better to oversize things a little rather than sizing them at capacity, would this be a good fit for these elements? http://www.ebay.com/itm/6500W-thyris...item257272e15e

Not inexpensive, but would it eliminate the need for the SSR, and the thought of fewer parts, so the potential of less going wrong? Appears to be built appropriately beefy enough.
The circuit you listed seems to be as simple as it can get for a triac operation. It probably uses a diac, capacitor and resistor to provide the trigger to the triac. By the picture, the triac is the BTA60-800B which is a 40A triac. The frequency of switching will be 60Hz. My PWM works at very low duty cycle, something like 2Hz.
Also, triacs works better when switching at zero crossing of the sine wave (specially for inductive loads, not your case thought), which this one will not do. This may increase heat and reduce component life.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:32 PM   #330
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So this is my second time reading this thread I have all my parts ordered to make Walker's PWM just needed some quick info on one thing regarding the 30a switch. Am I looking for a 4 pin switch? Will this one work: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-x-Green-But...0f31304&_uhb=1

Also will the light on the switch come on only when the element is on?

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