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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > PWM..Show us How
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:24 AM   #291
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Just built mine and testing it out. Had all the components except the 500k pot. Testing it out with my power supply that will be going in my panel. It also has 5 volt out that I will be using for my amp and volt meters.

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Old 05-08-2012, 04:26 AM   #292
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Here is a pic of my test.
forumrunner_20120507_222544.jpg

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Old 05-08-2012, 04:51 AM   #293
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The circuit does appear to work better from observing the LED on the SSR. But now I've observed something else odd. It appears that it takes 3-5 minutes for the circuit to get going. When I enable power to it, it does not turn on the SSR at all. A few minutes later and it works fine. If I kill the power and then re-apply the power, the circuit works fine. Do I have a bad capacitor that is taking too long to charge up?
Figured out the issue. The problem was a bad connection for the socket handling the 555 Timer.
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:45 PM   #294
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Default Walker's Potentiometer Diagram

I have ordered all the parts as Walker has suggested for my PWM build.

I really like the idea of a switched Potentiometer. Just one more element of safety that I want to add to my build.

What would be my specific wiring diagram for wiring this Potentiometer. Both input and output.

Does anyone have specific diagram? Picture would be great.

I will buy you beer.

Thank You in advance. I really appreciate it.

TD

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Old 05-16-2012, 06:44 PM   #295
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I used part number POT500KBSWITCH from futurlec.com for $0.80
( I got enough pots, 555's, caps, and diodes for 10 PWM's for about $20)
http://www.futurlec.com/PotRot.shtml (last item on page)

See that the bottom has 2 contacts, not three? That is the switch.

Just run the 5V or 12V DC positive to one side, and out of the other side you connect to your positive..

here is a drawing of the ones I have been using for months:
http://c.circuitbee.com/build/r/sche...?id=0000000245


I can email a pic from my phone if needed, PM me your email.

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Old 05-16-2012, 09:02 PM   #296
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Here is a pic of three of them fully assembled and hot-glued..

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Old 05-17-2012, 01:04 AM   #297
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Great You have pointed me in the right direction...

Thanks

TD

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Old 05-17-2012, 03:39 AM   #298
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Originally Posted by tdiowa View Post
Great You have pointed me in the right direction...

Thanks

TD
When I wired mine up, I just Googled "wiring up a potentiometer". Looking at Walker's drawing, the brown and the pink wires are to two outside connectors on the potentiometer and the black wire is the center one.
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:59 PM   #299
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Just wanted to bump a great thread, and also share a link to the the Bakatronics PWM circuit I built into my control panel today. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the great info in this thread.

I built the circuit earlier this week and tested it using a computer case fan and 12VDC power supply and it worked great, so I wired and mounted into the control panel today. One thing I did notice is the circuit never gives you 100% Off or 100% On, it's more like 5% power and 95% percent power when the knob is turned all the way off or on. Not a big deal to me, but I just thought I'd point it out.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-...ml#post4232969

Thanks everyone!

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Old 07-08-2012, 12:53 AM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigljd View Post
Just wanted to bump a great thread, and also share a link the the Bakatronics PWM circuit I built into my control panel today. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the great info in this thread.

I built the circuit earlier this week and tested it using a computer case fan and 12VDC power supply and it worked great, so I wired and mounted into the control panel today. One thing I did notice is the circuit never gives you 100% Off or 100% On, it's more like 5% power and 95% percent power when the knob is turned all the way off or on. Not a big deal to me, but I just thought I'd point it out.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-...ml#post4232969

Thanks everyone!
That's great! I love my electric system. I too noticed that these PWM devices are never 100%. So I put in a switch that allows me to by pass the circuit and supply either 5v or 0v consistently to the SSR. It is a 3 way switch that will send all voltage to the SSR, send the voltage to the PWM or not send anything at all. I turn it full on until I have a rolling boil, then I switch it to run through the PWM.
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