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Old 06-07-2011, 06:28 PM   #21
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What about the switch? is 30A required there, or is 20A enough?
You would need a switch rated for at least 25A, a 30A will be easier to find.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:39 PM   #22
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Be safe30 A

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Old 06-15-2011, 06:47 PM   #23
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How did you wire up the wall wart adapter? Did you take it apart or just wire to the prongs? That part has me confused.

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Old 06-17-2011, 02:20 PM   #24
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Cut the end that plugged into the phone or whatever and solder that to the input of the board.

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Old 06-19-2011, 07:32 PM   #25
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I guess I should have been more clear. It appeared in the wiring diagram that one leg of the 240 amp service was feeding the wall wart. Was this wired up to an outlet that is plugged in or directly to a transformer? I was hoping to attach my toolbox to the 240 and do all the wiring inside, so I was curious if there was a preferable/safer option.

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Old 06-30-2011, 08:59 PM   #26
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Default Bakatronics Controller

For those of you who have used the bakatronics controller as suggested by freddyb, do you know what the duty cycle is for the base kit? Freddyb suggested switching out one of the capacitors, how does that affect the duty cycle and why is it necessary? Thanks for the input.

Cheers,

Greg

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Old 07-25-2011, 05:52 PM   #27
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For those of you who have used the bakatronics controller as suggested by freddyb, do you know what the duty cycle is for the base kit? Freddyb suggested switching out one of the capacitors, how does that affect the duty cycle and why is it necessary? Thanks for the input.

Cheers,

Greg
Bump for an answer. Anyone with this kit and a 'scope that could figure out the pule frequency for us? I would like to know the same thing.

P.S.
the duty cycle is not what is changed by the cap, the pot changes the duty cycle which is what we use to regulate heat output. the frequency of the pulse is what is in question.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:05 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Chemkrafty View Post
I guess I should have been more clear. It appeared in the wiring diagram that one leg of the 240 amp service was feeding the wall wart. Was this wired up to an outlet that is plugged in or directly to a transformer? I was hoping to attach my toolbox to the 240 and do all the wiring inside, so I was curious if there was a preferable/safer option.
The PWM is powered from 120v which the wall wort is plugged into. The 240v has one leg straight to the element, and one leg goes through the SSR. There are four connections on the ssr. Two from the PWM, (the control side) and one leg of the 240v goes in one one side of the SSR and out the other to the element.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:49 PM   #29
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Buy this: http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383
Replace C1 with a 2.2uF capacitor to lower the frequency.
Use a 12V wall wart as a power supply to the PWM board.
Connect the output of the PWM board to a SSR to control your boil.

This is how I did it and I'm very happy. Cheap, easy, responsive control.
were can i find the 2.2uf capactior at? thanks

edit: will this work( http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tic+capacitors )
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by flatulentfox View Post
Bump for an answer. Anyone with this kit and a 'scope that could figure out the pule frequency for us? I would like to know the same thing.

P.S.
the duty cycle is not what is changed by the cap, the pot changes the duty cycle which is what we use to regulate heat output. the frequency of the pulse is what is in question.

I'd like to know the pulse frequency as well, as it can affect the life of the SSR. The SSRs will fail after a certain number of switches (although much higher than a mechanical relay).

For controlling a heating element, I would guess a few Hz is more than enough to keep a smooth boil. If the speed control is pulsing at 1kHz it's just unnecessarily wearing the SSR.


EDIT: Success! 264Hz in the stock specification. The calculation to adjust the frequency is in the PDF. 2.2uF at C1 gives you 1.2 Hz pulse frequency. I would guess that's very appropriate.

EDIT2: I just bought one. Hopefully it will do a good job replacing the mechanical timer relay which never really worked as I intended.
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