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Old 12-16-2011, 12:26 AM   #201
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if your willing to wait i have found the 500k pots on ebay for 0.99 free shipping coming from china. they are the linear 1s too. 500K OHM Linear Taper Potentiometer Pot B500K | eBay


also would this be a good for the 555 part of circuitbee design
20 x PRECISION TIMERS NE555 LM555 HA17555 KA555 NE555P NE555N LM555CN LM555N | eBay

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Old 12-16-2011, 12:31 AM   #202
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Originally Posted by Csuho
if your willing to wait i have found the 500k pots on ebay for 0.99 free shipping coming from china. they are the linear 1s too. 500K OHM Linear Taper Potentiometer Pot B500K | eBay

also would this be a good for the 555 part of circuitbee design
20 x PRECISION TIMERS NE555 LM555 HA17555 KA555 NE555P NE555N LM555CN LM555N | eBay
Yeah. Those 555s are what you want. Crazy though... $1.98 for TWENTY of them.

You'll have plenty of spare parts.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:15 AM   #203
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I thought they might what I wanted but I wanted to make sure I am getting parts I am not totally sure about.

Thanks for the help Walker and others.

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Old 12-16-2011, 02:39 AM   #204
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does the voltage on the cap matter in clearwaterbrewers design? I have found a 35v, 25v, 50v, 450v.

Thanks everyone.

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Old 12-16-2011, 12:33 PM   #205
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Yeah. Those 555s are what you want. Crazy though... $1.98 for TWENTY of them.

You'll have plenty of spare parts.
Yeah, but 555 timers are SOOOO versatile!
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:44 PM   #206
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Homer, did you post your process for etching the boards already?

Walker, I ordered 4 kits Just because it makes more sense with shipping.
I am using the laser printer method. There are hundereds of articles online. It basically goes like this:

Make layout and print on Laser printer in REVERSE. OR, print on ANY printer and then make copies on a laser copier with darkness set to HIGH.

The idea is to get as much toner on the paper as possible.

Use a green scrubby and alcohol to get the tarnish and oils from some copper clad.

Iron the design onto the board. The plastic toner will stick to the board. Soak the board and paper in water for a while to soften the paper and GENTLY wipe the paper from the board, leaving the layout still attached.

Then soak the board in etching solution until the copper is eaten away. The copper under the toner will remain, leaving traces. Then wipe the toner away with some acetone.

I then "Tin" the traces with a hot iron and some solder.

The etching solution I ended up using is 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide and 1 part Muriactic Acid (swimming pool/hot tub supply store). The first board will etch in a couple of minutes!

NOTE: this solution is VERY bad for the environment, since it now contains a lot of copper! Please don't pour this stuff down the drain! I've read that it can be used over and over and if the etching isn't working you can just add more peroxide and acid. If you start getting too much you can let it evaporate. (outside, since the fumes are pretty nasty)

Google that stuff.

Last night I finish my first working board. I still need to tweak the process, but it worked out ok I think.

Another tip is to use the cheapest, thinnest, sales ad paper you can find. with a bit of gloss on it. This allows the toner to stick to the OUTSIDE of the paper, and yet it also allows the paper to be removed from the board easily.

It takes a bit of practice to get the print and the ironing done just right. But you can always clean the board with acetone and try again!
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:09 PM   #207
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I use secondaries. :p
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does the voltage on the cap matter in clearwaterbrewers design? I have found a 35v, 25v, 50v, 450v.

Thanks everyone.
That's a max voltage rating. You'll be using something less than 15v, so any of them will work.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:07 PM   #208
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... The etching solution I ended up using is 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide and 1 part Muriactic Acid (swimming pool/hot tub supply store). The first board will etch in a couple of minutes!

NOTE: this solution is VERY bad for the environment, since it now contains a lot of copper! Please don't pour this stuff down the drain! I've read that it can be used over and over and if the etching isn't working you can just add more peroxide and acid. If you start getting too much you can let it evaporate. (outside, since the fumes are pretty nasty)
...
Found this in case you're interested ...

Stop using Ferric Chloride etchant! (A better etching solution.)
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Old 12-16-2011, 03:01 PM   #209
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That's the main article I ended up using as a guide after reading a bunch of threads. The copper remains in the etchant, so it's still toxic, but you can re-prime it over and over. Eventually you'll have to find a place to dispose of it, or find a good way to remove the copper and then you can neutralize the acids.

I wonder if a copper plating process could remove most of the copper...
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:03 PM   #210
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That's the main article I ended up using as a guide after reading a bunch of threads. The copper remains in the etchant, so it's still toxic, but you can re-prime it over and over. Eventually you'll have to find a place to dispose of it, or find a good way to remove the copper and then you can neutralize the acids.

I wonder if a copper plating process could remove most of the copper...
Yeah copper plate all your brass fittings hehe... I don't know the real(tm) answer unfortunately.
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