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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > PWM..Show us How
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:25 PM   #11
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Yeah, now that I re-read my post I have no idea why I posted it like that. I guess that's what happens when you are trying to install Exchange Server and figure Mash Adjustments while reading and posting on HBT...

The image above has a very good sample of the frequency showing the hotter vs the cooler pulse widths. It's more about the time per pulse that the element is on vs the time per pulse that it's off.
I feel ya, I'm in the middle of putting a new Barracuda Backup server right now.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:13 AM   #12
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Here's a diagram I made. I tried to keep it simple. Hopefully it's enough to get you going. It's easier to understand once you get your hands on this stuff and start piecing it together.
Very nice diagram! Thank you for posting it.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:47 PM   #13
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Here's a diagram I made. I tried to keep it simple. Hopefully it's enough to get you going. It's easier to understand once you get your hands on this stuff and start piecing it together.
Just picked up my heating element! Just gots to wire it up!!
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:54 PM   #14
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Be careful here. I know some might argue the HBT board goes a bit overboard when it comes to safety, but is that really possible when we're using water, metal tanks and 30-50 amps at 115 to 230 V?

Specifically, the following concerns on the discussed schematic.

  1. There is no ground shown. ALWAYS use ground; no exceptions -- this absolutely should be shown on any schematic we post.
  2. Once the DPDT is switched ON, you'll have 120V at the element. This combined with no ground to the tanks could make for a very bad brewing day.
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:05 PM   #15
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Be careful here. I know some might argue the HBT board goes a bit overboard when it comes to safety, but is that really possible when we're using water, metal tanks and 30-50 amps at 115 to 230 V?

Specifically, the following concerns on the discussed schematic.
  1. There is no ground shown. ALWAYS use ground; no exceptions -- this absolutely should be shown on any schematic we post.
  2. Once the DPDT is switched ON, you'll have 120V at the element. This combined with no ground to the tanks could make for a very bad brewing day.

Good point! Grounding the element/kettle to the house wiring is essential. I'll need to update the diagram.

And yes, DPDT switch should only be ON when you want the element to be ON. This is manual control.
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by vballdrummer
Be careful here. I know some might argue the HBT board goes a bit overboard when it comes to safety, but is that really possible when we're using water, metal tanks and 30-50 amps at 115 to 230 V?

Specifically, the following concerns on the discussed schematic.
[*]There is no ground shown. ALWAYS use ground; no exceptions -- this absolutely should be shown on any schematic we post.[*]Once the DPDT is switched ON, you'll have 120V at the element. This combined with no ground to the tanks could make for a very bad brewing day.
Thanks vballdrummer!!
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-Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Friar Tuck

"The nations of the West also have their own intoxicant, made from grain soaked in water...Alas, what wonderful ingenuity vice possesses! A method has actually been discovered for making even water intoxicated."
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:13 PM   #17
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Just points for any unsuspecting members that grab up a schematic for a blind build. Some of the questions in the Electric Brewing thread are causes for concern.

For noobs, the element is HOT (electrically speaking) even thought the PWM circuit is turned all the way down (off)

Let's go brew!

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Old 06-05-2011, 06:31 PM   #18
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Here's a diagram I made. I tried to keep it simple. Hopefully it's enough to get you going. It's easier to understand once you get your hands on this stuff and start piecing it together.


Do you really need a 40 A SSR. I plan on using 240 V 4500 W heater. The math says 18.75 A Max, with a 25% safety margin can you not use a 25 A SSR?
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:00 AM   #19
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You don't NEED a 40A SSR but it will operate much cooler than a 25A SSR, and for the difference in price it's great peace of mind.

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:24 PM   #20
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What about the switch? is 30A required there, or is 20A enough?

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