 |
|
01-29-2011, 12:15 AM
|
#1
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Newburgh,NY
Posts: 312
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts Likes Given: 1
|
PWM..Show us How
|
|
Been looking an waiting, Pretty sure i'm not the only one wondering,[LEFT]how do you build/make one. Some say get a PWM , you dont need a PID setup . SO I ask . HOW..
|
|
|
01-29-2011, 05:20 AM
|
#2
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atwater, OH
Posts: 4,247
Liked 31 Times on 31 Posts Likes Given: 42
|
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvy
And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
|
|
|
|
01-29-2011, 02:14 PM
|
#3
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 216
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts
|
Buy this: http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383
Replace C1 with a 2.2uF capacitor to lower the frequency.
Use a 12V wall wart as a power supply to the PWM board.
Connect the output of the PWM board to a SSR to control your boil.
This is how I did it and I'm very happy. Cheap, easy, responsive control.
|
|
|
01-29-2011, 02:57 PM
|
#4
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atwater, OH
Posts: 4,247
Liked 31 Times on 31 Posts Likes Given: 42
|
Interesting! Very Nice!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvy
And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
|
|
|
|
05-06-2011, 05:03 PM
|
#5
|
|
Hmmm, BEER!
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Goodells, MICHIGAN
Posts: 1,211
Liked 28 Times on 26 Posts Likes Given: 45
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by freddyb
Buy this: http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383
Replace C1 with a 2.2uF capacitor to lower the frequency.
Use a 12V wall wart as a power supply to the PWM board.
Connect the output of the PWM board to a SSR to control your boil.
This is how I did it and I'm very happy. Cheap, easy, responsive control.
|
Can you show photo's of your unit with the wiring schematic 
__________________
Spotted Dog Brewing
"This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.. Beer!"
-Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Friar Tuck
"The nations of the West also have their own intoxicant, made from grain soaked in water...Alas, what wonderful ingenuity vice possesses! A method has actually been discovered for making even water intoxicated."
- Pliny the Elder
|
|
|
05-06-2011, 05:35 PM
|
#6
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 216
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpottedDogBrewing
Can you show photo's of your unit with the wiring schematic 
|
Here's a diagram I made. I tried to keep it simple. Hopefully it's enough to get you going. It's easier to understand once you get your hands on this stuff and start piecing it together.

|
|
|
05-06-2011, 05:48 PM
|
#7
|
|
Moderator
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reed City, MI
Posts: 18,798
Liked 751 Times on 567 Posts Likes Given: 348
|
I have one of those PWM boards and it was very easy to build. I connected to a 12V and watched it smoothly run from Zero to full speed through the whole range of the dial.
Adjusting for a heater element is extremely easy.
Once the board is built, and you have your 12V connected, simply run the output to a Solid State Relay, and connect the Relay to the heater element.
The PWM controller turns the relay on and off faster for more heat, and slower for less. Think of it as controlling PULSES of electricity to the element. The faster the pulses come, the hotter the element will get.
|
|
|
05-06-2011, 06:00 PM
|
#8
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 868
Liked 10 Times on 10 Posts Likes Given: 4
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Homercidal
The PWM controller turns the relay on and off faster for more heat, and slower for less. Think of it as controlling PULSES of electricity to the element. The faster the pulses come, the hotter the element will get.
|
Hmmm...no. A real PWM controls the heat by varying the time the element is active, in relation with the total pulse time. The pulse frequency never changes. What changes is the part of the total pulse the element is receiving power. The wider the active part of the pulse, the more heat produced (hence the "pulse width modulation" name).
__________________
A pessimist is a well informed optimist.
|
|
|
05-06-2011, 06:07 PM
|
#9
|
|
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Atwater, OH
Posts: 4,247
Liked 31 Times on 31 Posts Likes Given: 42
|
^^What he said^^
The PWM doesn't modify the amount of heat the element puts out, that is static based on the wattage/voltage. It just modifies the amount of time the element stays on.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvy
And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
|
|
|
|
05-06-2011, 07:23 PM
|
#10
|
|
Moderator
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Reed City, MI
Posts: 18,798
Liked 751 Times on 567 Posts Likes Given: 348
|
Yeah, now that I re-read my post I have no idea why I posted it like that. I guess that's what happens when you are trying to install Exchange Server and figure Mash Adjustments while reading and posting on HBT...
The image above has a very good sample of the frequency showing the hotter vs the cooler pulse widths. It's more about the time per pulse that the element is on vs the time per pulse that it's off.
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
|
|