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Old 06-20-2012, 11:25 AM   #11
dutchb
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Thanks shroomofdoom, that's pretty much what I was looking for.
@emjay - as far as probe placement in the valve goes, would I just be recirculating the mash for the entire 1 hour then to get a constant reading?

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Old 06-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by dutchb
Thanks shroomofdoom, that's pretty much what I was looking for.
@emjay - as far as probe placement in the valve goes, would I just be recirculating the mash for the entire 1 hour then to get a constant reading?
Yes. And in addition to evening out the temperature of the mash, circulating also helps clarify the wort and even increases efficiency a bit.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:15 PM   #13
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Thanks shroomofdoom, that's pretty much what I was looking for.
@emjay - as far as probe placement in the valve goes, would I just be recirculating the mash for the entire 1 hour then to get a constant reading?
Yes, a recirculated mash system should generally circulate for the full hour, or until full conversion if that's what the recipe calls for.

You mentioned in the OP that you don't want to do HERMS or RIMS? My only concern is mash recirc without adding any form of heat input. Recirc is inherently lossy as the wort goes through hoses, pumps, fittings--and loses a lot of heat to a keg MLT.

If you are going to recirculate, you may want to consider RIMS or HERMS. If you don't want to deal with those, a cooler style MLT or very well insulated (and preheated) keg MLT would probably be in order.
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:05 PM   #14
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ahhh, i didnt really think about losing temperature through the hoses etc;
My original plan was to insulate the keg.
Just did some reading and I see people are just adding hotter water into keg for pre-heating, letting it cool to strike temp, then adding grain - is that your version of pre-heating?

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:59 PM   #15
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Oh, my bad. For some reason I thought your MT was direct-fired.

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Old 06-21-2012, 01:06 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by dutchb View Post
ahhh, i didnt really think about losing temperature through the hoses etc;
My original plan was to insulate the keg.
Just did some reading and I see people are just adding hotter water into keg for pre-heating, letting it cool to strike temp, then adding grain - is that your version of pre-heating?
This helps, more so with a cooler than kegs though. When I was worried about heat loss I just filled the vessel with hot tap water, on some occasions I preboiled some charge water. Ultimately though, it's much easier to calculate dough in temps, hit your mark, and then keep it steady through the wonders of technology.

These graphs represent the heat loss of my 2 layer reflectix insulated keg tun when my heat source was not working during some recent testing. They drop off pretty quickly. Keg skirts and handles are huge heat sinks





My crummy old cooler held heat better than my insulated keg tun.
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