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FScholle 09-06-2011 09:59 AM

Planning out my electric BIAB setup
 
Hi everyone,

I'm planning to set up a small BIAB brewery in my garage. In a nutshell this is what I'm thinking about:

Install a 240 VAC circuit ( I have a couple of empty slots in the subpanel in my garage).
Run that into the ubiquitously mentioned HD 50 buck spa panel.

I accidentally bought one of the cheap ebay aquarium controllers that's rated for 220 V. To not let that go to waste wire that in for temp control and then run from there to the water heater element.

I don't think I have seen use of the temp controller for the water heat element but I can't see why it would not work. Alternatively I would use an infinite switch for manual temp control on the element.

I would be grateful for any suggestions especially stuff I might run into with the electric side of things. I have generally no problems with household electic wiring but I'm not super experienced and definitely not an electronics guy.

Thanks,

Frank

FScholle 09-06-2011 03:18 PM

hmm on second thought
 
OK, the temp controller is not going to work for this, so I guess infinite switch it is.

phoenixs4r 09-06-2011 07:18 PM

I was thinking of using one of those 220vac eBay controllers as well. Care to explain why it wont work? I'm still new tto the concept of electric brewing.

FScholle 09-06-2011 07:51 PM

Unless I don't really understand the specs it's only rated for 5A and a 4500W element will pull about 19A.

P-J 09-06-2011 07:59 PM

If your plan is to go BIAB all electric - I suggest that you use the PID SYL-2352 from Auber Instruments and their SSR to control your brewery. There are lots of wiring plans on this forum on how to do it. (I know - I drew them.)

P-J

Maxkling 09-06-2011 08:27 PM

Well your temperature controller could work if you used it to energize a contactor that was rated for your amperage of the elements. Its not the best way to keep an accurate temperature though. You will have to have a large deviation to keep the contactor from constantly cycling every few seconds (if it cycled that often it would be loud, the contacts wouldn't hold up, and large increase in transient voltage from the coil).

FScholle 09-07-2011 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-J
If your plan is to go BIAB all electric - I suggest that you use the PID SYL-2352 from Auber Instruments and their SSR to control your brewery. There are lots of wiring plans on this forum on how to do it. (I know - I drew them.)

P-J

Yes I saw quite a few posts about that. I was hoping to keep costs down though. With all the stuff for heater elements, fittings, breakers etc it's already going to add up to quite a bit, so I was hoping to do it less expensively. I really don't mind manually controlling things. Maybe a PWM control would be a good alternative?

F

phoenixs4r 09-07-2011 12:49 AM

I'm in the same boat, trying to do electric on a budget. There's no voltage adjustment knob we can use to control the amount of heat from the element?

FScholle 09-07-2011 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenixs4r
I'm in the same boat, trying to do electric on a budget. There's no voltage adjustment knob we can use to control the amount of heat from the element?

From what I have seen here on the forums the PWM route might be the cheapest.....but I might have to learn how to solder......yyyrrrrch!!!!!

phoenixs4r 09-07-2011 05:05 PM

So a plain Jane rheostat is out of the question? Sorry if I'm just being a dumb noob, I just figured it would be the cheapest, simplest option.


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