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Old 01-10-2012, 12:25 AM   #11
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Sent you a PM.

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Old 01-10-2012, 11:48 AM   #12
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Sent you a PM.
you PMs are full, my email is luckychickenbrewery@gmail.com... I couldnt resist taking out an email with my brewery name!
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:06 PM   #13
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Well so far I've received my SSR, the jewel lights are in transit, I have two kegs for keggels, and the 50A GFCI breaker has been ordered.

Parts are starting to add up. But I still have a lot left to order.

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Old 01-18-2012, 11:06 PM   #14
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Did you install the element into that keg yet?

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Old 01-19-2012, 02:42 AM   #15
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Did you install the element into that keg yet?
No not yet. I think I'm going to solder a 1" locknut on it first.
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:22 AM   #16
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No not yet. I think I'm going to solder a 1" locknut on it first.
Oh cool, post pictures.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:55 PM   #17
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I'm a bit confused as to why you are using a SPDT switch for the buzzer and an indicator light. With that arrangement they will both be either on or off.

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Old 01-19-2012, 07:48 PM   #18
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If I understand correctly how the PID works, when you activate the alarm, wire #1 & #14 send 120v to what you have wired to them. I'm using DPST switch to; A) Turn on the indicator light to let me know that the alarm buzzer is "live". and B) To be able to quickly turn off the buzzer when the alarm is triggered.

So far I think I have it designed correctly. But I haven received much feedback on the diagram.

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Old 01-20-2012, 02:46 AM   #19
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I'm not terribly familiar with the Auber products, but I am quite familiar with control logic and use it everyday as a mechanical engineer. I don't think that your alarm circuit is going to work that well. Figure 5.2, page 6 of the following shows how the wire the alarm circuits.

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Ma...sion%203.4.pdf

I'm afraid that you could have two active alarms (while they will be in-phase) and you won't be able to control them independently.

I would use something more along the lines of the following (which is what I used). This is a DPST switch that would allow either the alarm or the light to be active, but not both. The way you have it shown now will make the light and the alarm active, or "on", at the same time, or off at the same time. That seems redundant to me; I would have either the light or the alarm active, but not both. That's just my 12 ounces of advice so take it for what you paid for it.

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Terminals 1 and 14 are two separate alarm circuits, both being fed by terminal 13. You would need to put the light inline with #13 to know that the buzzer is "live" and then tie the buzzer to 1 or 14 to have it turn on with the alarm circuit.

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Old 01-20-2012, 02:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvtschultz View Post
I'm not terribly familiar with the Auber products, but I am quite familiar with control logic and use it everyday as a mechanical engineer. I don't think that your alarm circuit is going to work that well. Figure 5.2, page 6 of the following shows how the wire the alarm circuits.

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Ma...sion%203.4.pdf

I'm afraid that you could have two active alarms (while they will be in-phase) and you won't be able to control them independently.

I would use something more along the lines of the following (which is what I used). This is a DPST switch that would allow either the alarm or the light to be active, but not both. The way you have it shown now will make the light and the alarm active, or "on", at the same time, or off at the same time. That seems redundant to me; I would have either the light or the alarm active, but not both. That's just my 12 ounces of advice so take it for what you paid for it.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Terminals 1 and 14 are two separate alarm circuits, both being fed by terminal 13. You would need to put the light inline with #13 to know that the buzzer is "live" and then tie the buzzer to 1 or 14 to have it turn on with the alarm circuit.
Thanks for the input. You've given me a few things to think about.
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