Planning the Brichaus E-brewery build
First off, thanks to everyone on this forum for all the information. I've been reading for countless hours and the information is priceless.
So I'm planning a simple e-kettle to start with. It's really not much different than a eBIAB setup. Power will be supplied by a GFI spa panel, typical power cords. The kettle will also be the typical setup, element, weatherproof box, rtd temp. sensor, etc.
The real meat of the project is in the control box. The idea I have is to build more of an antiquated looking control panel. Part art, part function.
Here's the list of parts I'm thinking of using. Let me know if see anything that won't work.
Fuses and fuse holders
For the wiring diagram (I could use a little help here) I'm thinking something along the lines of voltin's setup
The differences would be the addition of the E-stop, different switches, and indicator lights.
Any advice or help on this project would be greatly appreciated.
I think you need a 240V pilot light for the "element on" indicator. I am not the right guy to bless this, but that one jumped out at me.
O K, so I made some changes to the plan and the wiring. I was looking through PJ's diagrams and came up with this.
Switch #1 uses Gringer part# 2TPF8 DPDT switch
Switch #2 uses Gringer part# 2VLN5 SPST switch
Switch #3 is still the same keyed switch.
The only part I cannot figure out is how to wire up the alarm. I'd like to be able to flip a switch to activate the alarm circuit and turn on an indicator light that the alarm is on. When the buzzer goes off from the alarm, I'd like to be able to flip the same switch to the "off" position to turn off the buzzer and indicator light.
So I was giving the alarm circuit some thought last night. I think if I use a DPST switch it could work. One set of the poles activates the indicator light. The other set completes the buzzer circuit.
On another note, I got my control panel off of eBay last night. I got a Hammond EJ10106 for $20 shipped. It's 10"x10"x6", so it should be big enough for my project.
I'm also planning on picking up this Camco element from Home Depot.
Sounds like you're off to a good start. Your contactor and SSR choices will work fine.
A 120V pilot light will work fine for the element on, as long as you only care if it lights when the element *should* be receiving power.
You can wire the pilot light off of the hot leg of the switched SSR output, then to neutral. It will run on 120V and you'll be fine. As for the alarm circuit, that's what I was going to suggest when I read your requirements, (and now I wish I'd done the same!).
The other option would be an illuminated switch. The switch itself would light up when on, (regardless as to whether or not the alarm was sounding), and when shut off it would go dark, and the alarm would shut off. Easier to wire, but doesn't fit in with the rest of your pilot lights. A pushbutton illuminated switch like the ones PJ always suggests would work fine. For a cheaper option, I got rocker switches, 120V, 10A, illuminated, from Menards for like $4. Pic of them on my panel here:
Full pic here:
I took another crack at the wiring for the alarm. I think I got it right, tell me what you think.
The box for my control panel came today.
So I got the SSR ordered today and managed to pick up a keg for my kettle. So things are kinda on their way.
What's everyone's thought on this fuse block from Radio Shack?
its only rated to 20A
If you want I have a couple fuse blocks left over that I could probably part with for $5ea.
I have extras because I bought them in bulk when the cheapest I could find them in town was $20 each
|All times are GMT. The time now is 01:45 AM.|
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.